Stomping Feet

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This season is definetly theirs. Nothing will stop them this Winter, even Tom Ford’s fairy-tale thigh high boots with hand made embroideries. Well, Tom Ford would throw up if he would heard that the famous club footed giant clobs with rubber soles would be gesting his runway. But still the inner beauty soul of mine still loves Tom’s creation… but this is not the thing. Fashion giants like Prada, Stella McCartney and Jil Sander together with a plague of young british designers are just crazy about them. Masculine inspired shoes, so called boots nowadays have lots of not too kind nicknames- mammonthly elevatedm tractor tread shoes. But why do women love them. Easy answear- they are simply ugly. Sounds strange, but yes dear female readers, there is now a new fashion era of ugliness- from wearing furkenstocks on feet to mixing prints and colours, that in the past would not even make it in the cheapest pubs. But now they are the ones that are most photographed on street styles and in magazine editorials! Boots are now the most WANTED on women’s wishlist. The next point of their amazingness is their comfortable state (no heels, wedges, mid heels, killer heels, strange ropes etc.) and practically! Now you shall were it everywhere! Even on a MET Gala during the Punk trend. Yes. Punk. Punk also made boots for women more popular. Punk was a controversy. Punks wore boots everywhere. “Normal” people in times of Punk massive attack were saying that it’s so disgusting… And now it’s the most worn shoe for almost ten seasons.

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But this season is the most  Punk’d as you can see, filtering magazines and Instagram. So no wonder why boots are killing the high heels that are just so last season! While I pretty like this shoe trend, it feels kind of rebellious and free spirited. In these shoes you will conquer your shoes. As Stella McCartney says “We’re allowed to have inner strenght and it takes that to wear those shoes”. Her collection was like a gender mix- a man shirt that was very long, making it a dress, feels a bit Marc Jacobs, but on women looks great. Laces mixed with smokings looked very modern and surely gives a inner power to every wearing it fashionista. But, these strange shoes might be very romantic, as says Miuccia Prada. True. They looked very sexy accompanied with the dresses and wet hair of models… But what makes a bit suprised, that mostly woman used this “forbidden” trend. Well, except Hedi Slimane and Karl Lagerfeld. But that’s a totally other story to tell. I mean, they are also boots, but boots designed by men this season are beautiful- full of decorations, chains. As I said on the beginning, giving example of Tom Ford, men don’t really like seeing women in these chuncky shoes. It’s better when it is high, hurty and sexy!

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London designers are just in love with them. Erdem, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson. All of them had boots in their collections. BUT. At Kane, the Chelsea boots were covered with feathers (not so ugly then), at Erdem with crystals (might say even beautiful, and J.W. Anderson’s were so ugly, they were simply beautiful. Yes this is a strange world of Anderson. But why mostly London designers used this type of footwear? Cheaper to make? More commercial? Or just a case of inpiration? In fact, you can wear boots everytime and everwhere. They will make it great with a slim dress or with a mohair striped SL sweater and leather leggins. Or even with a Louis Vuitton boudoir inspired lace dress (that would be a cool hard core on street style in Paris!). In other words, the Wrong Shoes as many people call, are the new IT shoes of the season, and maybe of the decade.

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Simbolismo Religioso in Fashion

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Very soon I am going to visit Florence, the magical capital city of beautiful Tuscany! As I am now in a Dolce Vita mood, so a bit inspired with Dolce & Gabbana that may not feel so sweet life for a moment, I thought of the religious symbolism in fashion- not of this season, but from 1960 year when Cristobal Balencaiga designed his bridal dress with nuns head dressing inspired hat to Les Novices where Brigitte Bardot stars as a newcoming female nun that just don’t real know what to do and sins a lot there and there… I thought of Sevillas Santa Semanas holiday and the splendor of Vatican church that I truly love! And if Church women would wear Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2013, then it would perfectly match at Brugges nunnery. Although it all sounds very good, Kate Moss at W Magazine showed herself as a satan or a witch with sharp claws and vampire teeth… this editorial is very spooky! Just as Kristen McMenamy at opening and closing the Giles AW13 show, wearing a super scary make-up and anglican inspired gowns. As I am not really a religious person, I hope this post won’t make anybody offended. Well, it’s fashion!

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The Flower Men

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One of the coolest trend from the menswear Fashion Week SS14, is for sure the floral print. It was everywhere! It was all about the variety- from sun flowers to orchids. The king of that print was definitely Dries Van Noten. His collection was very street style, comfortable and simply chic. And florals were like everywhere! On the tank tops to the sweat pants.
The exotic one was 3.1. Philip Lim with the hummingbirds and hibiscus that decorated the tops. Miuccia Prada offered knitwear with Vietnamese flowers and Raf Simons took to a scientist laboratory, where his fantastic t-shirts had some notes written around the botanical specie… I think that was the most floral season for a really long time at men’s runway, and I think that’s totally right?

 

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The Cabinet of Couture

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“A cabinet of curiosities was an encyclopedic collection in Renaissance Europe of types of objects whose categorial boundaries were yet to be defined. They were also known by various names such as Cabinet of Wonder, and in German Kunstkammer (“art-room”) or Wunderkammer (“wonder-room”). Modern terminology would categorize the objects included as belonging to natural history (sometimes faked), geology, ethnography, archaeology, religious or historical relics, works of art (including cabinet paintings) and antiquities. “The Kunstkammer was regarded as a microcosm or theater of the world, and a memory theater. The Kunstkammer conveyed symbolically the patron’s control of the world through its indoor, microscopic reproduction.”[1] Of Charles I of England’s collection, Peter Thomas has succinctly stated, “The Kunstkabinett itself was a form of propaganda”.[2] Besides the most famous and best documented cabinets of rulers and aristocrats, members of the merchant class and early practitioners of science in Europe also formed collections that were precursors to museums.” Wikipedia about Cabinet of Curiosities…

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The Valentino Couture show was a poesy of fashion and art. No more to write, but just to ply your eyes with beauty by Pierpaolo Picciolini and Maria Grazia Chiuri!

HC: ATELIER VERSACE AW13

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Naomi Campbell walked down the runway like only Naomi can, in a jacket held together with crystal hooks and eyes. Underneath she wore a black lace bra, inspired with Madonna, and she was flashing a substantial swath of upper thigh. That was amazing. The icon in pretty new, fresh form, was mind blowing. The collection of Atelier Versace by Donatella Versace was all about bright past. First of all you need to know, that Donatella is recreating only two years, after a long break when Gianni died. This is like a renaissance. I should say, that for real Atelier Versace is now and then two much better than all these Chanel and Dior Haute Couture… All the Sergeenko’s, Valli’s, Jarrar’s need to hide and will never be as good as Atelier. Gianni is dead, but Donatella lives, and she really makes the label up. This is fantastic. I love it. Really.
This collection wasn’t about shitty minimalism but is propagated by Dior, or cheap looking wedding dresses by Chanel. The details- crystal hooks, fur, amazing tailor ship, best quality. And a cat suit that plunged down to Lindsey Wixson’s navel was paneled from lace, net, and handwoven leather. That piece was the least thirties-ish of the lot, but all of the models wore real diamond jewelry designed by Versace. I feel the Gianni spirit here!!!

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