Vetements

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Demna Gvasalia, the alum of Maison Martin Margiela, presented his second season of Vetements, a new, eponymous label. And the collection he and his mates produced for their first-ever show made a solid case for spontaneous style. A game with volumes lenghts was the big thing. This elusive, slightly eerie mood of Margiela was also all around the clothes… here is my favourite look from the SS15 show. I don’t know why, but these sleeves and shoes and the non-chalant belt really hit me during the Parisian fashion week.

Voyager. Celine Resort 2015

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Phoebe Philo is the woman designing for women. She knows best what they need and when they need. For the highly anticipated Resort 2015, Philo brought us totally new volumes and lengths- floor sweeping knitted dresses, voluminous capes and comfortable, over-sized tank tops. That’s a minimalist heaven with a twist of voyage souvenirs. Ethnic fabrics, pon-pons, fringes and the “Soft Ballerinas” were the factors that made think Cote d’Azur, Myanmar and a bit of New York’s attitude. But all of that bound with the Parisian ribbon of slight nonchalance. As you may see, the collection brings a lot of new features to Celine: waist-bags (LOVE!), bold colours and… yes, the first ever Resort campaign. With Daria Werbowy, of course. Is there something better than all of that? Well… only to touch and feel the clothes in person!

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Minimal / Opulent

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Here is the first peek, or taste, of what’s coming for Celine Resort 2015… but I surely can tell you one thing- it’s going to be minimal and opulent at same time. Phoebe Philo as always made it fresh and feminine. The full collection is coming soon…

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Ania Kuczynska AW14

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As you might now, I am really in love with Ania Kuczynska’s designs. Her Warsaw-based label, which is the most coveted in Poland, is a beautiful mixture of nonchalance and minimalism. And, oppositely to other Polish designers, Ania is not concentrating on the so-called “sponsored wall” or stars which should be invited for the show. No. For her, the most important are clothes and atmosphere, which is usually, modern and elegant. This time, for AW14 season (yep, sounds strange while the SS15 collection round have just ended), Kuczynska took us to the iconic Bristol Hotel, where she presented a dark, elusive collection full of sheer dresses and heavy, floor sweeping coats. The clothes, which had feminine, but simple cuts, reminded the Night Porter silhouettes. The name of this mysterious collection, LAVA, was possibly all about the fluid-like heaviness of the dark materials, while the quiet stars felt like a good way of having a dreamy night. Big bravo for this mesmerising collection because it (just like the whole concept of the label) truly out-stands the Polish fashion scene. Backstage photos via i-D Poland.

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German Summer. Jil Sander SS15

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Rodolfo Paglialunga, the ex-Vionnet designer, is now the creative director of the minimalistic brand Jil Sander. This quiet designer is now on the place of Jil Sander, who left her house a year ago, and this is his first show… and it’s very German. By saying German, I mean it’s super clean, super minimal and super effortless. But it’s totally not that, what Raf Simons used to show year ago (when Sander AGAIN left her label). For summer, Rodolfo used a lot of burgundy, blue and black. We’ve got some classical sweaters and shirts… In other words, yawn. But still, these clothes are very Jil Sander.

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