Missoni

Backstage of the show, Angela Missoni explained that “this is Missoni’s 65th anniversary; I thought, ‘Let’s start celebrating.’” Not only was a sense of laid-back felt all over the collection, that contained of both womenswear and menswear. It was a delightful, effortless play with the brand’s heritage knitwear. The Missoni nomads had something of Scottish, African, Italian and Jamaican reminiscence. But the nonchalantly tied shawls around the neck and the heavily Jean-Michel Basquiat inspired colour palette was a reference to 1970s New York, as the season’s moodboard suggested. Angela’s recent ways at Missoni make the family label even more relevant that ever, with its relaxed styling and remarkable ad campaigns lensed by Harley Weir. Not forgetting about the model diversity present in the autumn-winter 2018 show, which is something to be learnt by other Milan designers.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Exactly 20 years ago, Angela Missoni took on the role of creative director at the brand her parents founded. So yes, that’s a reason to do a very festive collection. Pieces from Missoni spring-summer 2018 just beg for an invitation to a garden party, Italian-way of course. Soft and light knits in all shades of aquamarine and covered in signature zig-zag patterns; sheer capes and fleecy cardigans wrapped around the body; big hats ready for sunset-watching. Now, picture this: wearing Missoni, take a sip of red wine and induldge yourself in some sage-flavoured raviolli. Gossip with your Italian friends. I think I’m buying that.

Angela always makes Missoni look contemporary, while relying on unconventional, edgy styling. What’s more, she doesn’t fall too hard into the house’s archives, but goes her own path. Her 20 years of creative direction are success, as she managed to keep Missoni an Italian heritage brand that’s relevant. And what’s this season’s biggest change? The brand’s womenswear and menswear is shown together, a runway-model adapted by many other Italian brands latelt. The boys, wearing their thin knitted scarves and printed shirts are happy to join that party, too.