What Prada’s autumn-winter 2019 was like? Rebellious and romantic, dark and light, aggressive and soft. An entire anatomy of feelings and moods, masterfully presented through fashion. Miuccia Prada sent down a line-up of big, heavy boots mixed with ultra-feminine touches, like draped silk roses stuck on skirts and bags, rich crystal embellishments and very sensual cuts that made each of the wool black dresses a true show-stopper. Just like in this season’s menswear, Prada featured Frankenstein-inspired prints (specifically the film still motif of Elsa Lanchester and Boris Karloff in the 1935 movie ‘The Bride of Frankenstein’) and following her current mood for cult horrors, some of the models had literal Wednesday Addams’ braids. There was the usual clash between utility (this time it felt even military, noting all of the khakis and uniform silhouettes) and delicacy (classical, black lace appeared dozens of times, whether layered on Prada’s signature nylon or as see-through knee-length skirts and dresses). Quite visibly, Miuccia’s woman is full of contrasts, just like each of the looks that went down the runway: there’s tenderness, there’s fragility, but there’s toughness and assertiveness. Mrs. Prada is a genius – but that fact is nothing new.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.