Calm Elegance. Prada SS20

No prints. No logos. Calm elegance. That’s the Prada I truly love. It’s been a while since Miuccia Prada did a collection that wasn’t focused on a motif, a fabric or a theme. Cotton tiered dresses worn with espadrilles, smooth leather suits, vintage-looking details (like 30s-inspired feather embroideries and sea-shell necklaces), soft knitted polos, a classic, black dress that isn’t too sheer or too goth… Every look involved a mix of textures (macramé, straw, velvet, calf, patent, rope, paillettes and others) and context (the beach, the office, a party, a weekend escape – you name it). Miuccia’s starting point for this collection was that “the person should be more important than the clothes,” and further, that “personal style is more important than clothes.” She was also hoping to make a point about simplicity, non-disposability, and “doing less.” After all, sustainability is also about investing in pieces you will wear for years. This is a delightful start of Milan fashion week.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Pastels, Shorts, Youth. Prada SS20

After Chloé’s resort 2020, Prada was another brand presenting its new collection in Shanghai – spring-summer for men, specifically. Over a blue-lit runway at the Minsheng Art Wharf, a parade of short shorts, nylon jackets in pastel pink, tank-tops that could pull off as baby doll dresses and printed jackets took place. This wasn’t a demanding Prada collection. Quite the opposite – this rather felt like the most commercial, menswear outing from Miuccia Prada for years, with a young client as the main target. Other than the khaki shorts that are much in need right now due to the summer heat, the only strong point of the collection was the black & white tailoring.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Choices. Prada Resort 2020

Retro florals, smart layering, scarves bejewelled with XXL sequins, baroque pearl earrings, chunky hand-knit tennis vests, clashed prints. Carefree eclecticism that isn’t overly extravagant, but daringly fantastic for everyday. It seemed that Miuccia Prada resorted to simpler, easier codes of fashion, leaving the darkness of last season behind. But in a way, this was Prada’s defiance in the time of difficulties. The collection, staged in New York (just like last year), was pure joy, whether we’re speaking of a blue peasant shirt-dress with naive flower embroideries worn by Freja Beha or adorable, knitted striped beanies and socks in bold colours, paired with the most ‘unmatching’ looks. There were also looks that will comfort the safer Prada customers, like light, loosely tailored blazers and classic coats. For me, what stood out in this collection, was the number of possibilities, suited for many different personalities. While the last few collections from Prada had those two or three key looks that ruled the runway, and had a tendency to be polarised between super feminine and super dark, here the designer really emphasised that sort of off-the-fashion-show reality. Take what you love, mix it the way you feel like.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.