French art students learn about Jean Pierre Raynaud at school. He was the conceptualist who spent 25 years building his house, only to decide it was too perfect and, in 1993, tear it to bits. Piece d’Anarchive, the fresh label coming straight from Paris, is a buzzy, loudly printed and cool vibed brand, that’s pretty new in fashion world. Their first real collection happened last season, and their second is up here, for Spring. Piece d’Anarchive designs for men and women, and their look-books make me want everything! The new collection is inspired with famous monochrome prints that were created by Jean Pierre Raynaud. Shorts, dresses, shoes (!), tshirts… everything is in black & white checks. The womenswear looks really hot and cool, and menswear is simply omething I want for a Christmas present! Just look at these trousers and sweatshirts! Love it! More on http://www.piecedanarchive.com
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Lurex Vision of Proenza
During the SS14 Fashion Week in New York, one label that was the most buzzed around was surely Proenza Schouler. The designer duo, Lazara Hernandez and Jack McCollough, made their sophisticated and eponymous label the hottest export product from the Big Apple! Gathering the coolest models around (Jamie Bochert and Edie Campbell, for example?), mixing fabrics that no one other would use (LUREX!) and creating the new New York chic, the PS boys really nailed it. The collection was kept in warm, creme / red / gold colours with some small dose of tree branch print. We also spotted some ethno vibes- the bags and coats with this navajo-like material and all these metallic bustiers with golden flowers and buggs on it! I found the shoes too a bit African inspired- these wooden platforms and leather embroideries made it this season on the accessory list.
This lurex striped maxi dress. Looks so amazingly sexy and beautiful on Jamie. Lurex, a very artificial fabric, that is not really considered us a luxury material, makes the dress suprisingly soft and delicate! And notice one thing- this a bit disco-like gown is not styled with heels, but… metallic geek sandals. Love it insanely.
Stripes for Resort- LV vs. MJ
Stripes definitely were on the mind of one designer… Marc Jacobs did mostly identical tops at his both Resort collection for 2014- at his own line, Marc Jacobs, were Jamie Bochert wore a striped fur sweater and at Louis Vuitton, where model Ondria Hardin had a very similar piece! So now, the question is: which one is more expensive?
Rock ‘n Chic. Saint Laurent SS14
That was the third Saint Laurent fashion show under the wings of Hedi Slimane, and it was… the best! I am still blown up after this collection that was presented in Grand Palais in Paris yesterday. On the entry, there was a big, LED lights installation that reminded of some abstract piece of art. And then the show begun of course with… Edie Campbell, with gloomy hairstyle and eye make-up. She wore a beautiful V-neck dress in black colour. Sexy and chic. Then the classical Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking shown in a much more casual way. The collection wasn’t punk itself- it was very chic and elegant, but had a rock ‘n roll twist too. Stripes t-shirts, sequined jackets, sharp hair-cuts, over-large sleeves and lips/fire print on few mini dresses. Hedi definitely got mad with all these grunge boots from Winter, but certainly he did fell in love with socks under stilettos… I think this is one of the coolest trend, while most people are totally on NO when they see this. But in the Saint Laurent edition, it simply looked great. The SS14 collection by Saint laurent was definitely one of my favourite this season!
Metal. Anthony Vaccarello SS14
When Anja Rubik opens a show in a sexy black jacket at Anthony Vaccarello, then… Well, there is no possibility it will be a dissapoinment! With a huge dose of sex appeal, the SS14 collection from this emerging designer is something unbelievably simple, but at the same time cool. Vaccarello is famous for his amazing sexy cuts, bandage dresses and great use of leather… Do you remember the Met Gala red leather dress that Anja wore? The motif of it was already Summer 2014 that has too a similar look. I also loved the dyed jeans- something new at Anthony, while for few seasons we see only mini skirt or evening gowns… For the first Paris Fashion Week collection this season, it feels already… Parisian. And that’s why this my favourite fashion week of all!
Design & Culture by Ed 