Lurex Vision of Proenza

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During the SS14 Fashion Week in New York, one label that was the most buzzed around was surely Proenza Schouler. The designer duo, Lazara Hernandez and Jack McCollough, made their sophisticated and eponymous label the hottest export product from the Big Apple! Gathering the coolest models around (Jamie Bochert and Edie Campbell, for example?), mixing fabrics that no one other would use (LUREX!) and creating the new New York chic, the PS boys really nailed it. The collection was kept in warm, creme / red / gold colours with some small dose of tree branch print. We also spotted some ethno vibes- the bags and coats with this navajo-like material and all these metallic bustiers with golden flowers and buggs on it! I found the shoes too a bit African inspired- these wooden platforms and leather embroideries made it this season on the accessory list.

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This lurex striped maxi dress. Looks so amazingly sexy and beautiful on Jamie. Lurex, a very artificial fabric, that is not really considered us a luxury material, makes the dress suprisingly soft and delicate! And notice one thing- this a bit disco-like gown is not styled with heels, but… metallic geek sandals. Love it insanely.

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Stripes for Resort- LV vs. MJ

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Stripes definitely were on the mind of one designer… Marc Jacobs did mostly identical tops at his both Resort collection for 2014- at his own line, Marc Jacobs, were Jamie Bochert wore a striped fur sweater and at Louis Vuitton, where model Ondria Hardin had a very similar piece! So now, the question is: which one is more expensive?

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Rock ‘n Chic. Saint Laurent SS14

Slide1-kopiaThat was the third Saint Laurent fashion show under the wings of Hedi Slimane, and it was… the best! I am still blown up after this collection that was presented in Grand Palais in Paris yesterday. On the entry, there was a big, LED lights installation that reminded of some abstract piece of art. And then the show begun of course with… Edie Campbell, with gloomy hairstyle and eye make-up. She wore a beautiful V-neck dress in black colour. Sexy and chic. Then the classical Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking shown in a much more casual way. The collection wasn’t punk itself- it was very chic and elegant, but had a rock ‘n roll twist too. Stripes t-shirts, sequined jackets, sharp hair-cuts, over-large sleeves and lips/fire print on few mini dresses. Hedi definitely got mad with all these grunge boots from Winter, but certainly he did fell in love with socks under stilettos… I think this is one of the coolest trend, while most people are totally on NO when they see this. But in the Saint Laurent edition, it simply looked great. The SS14 collection by Saint laurent was definitely one of my favourite this season!
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Metal. Anthony Vaccarello SS14

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When Anja Rubik opens a show in a sexy black jacket at Anthony Vaccarello, then… Well, there is no possibility it will be a dissapoinment! With a huge dose of sex appeal, the SS14 collection from this emerging designer is something unbelievably simple, but at the same time cool. Vaccarello is famous for his amazing sexy cuts, bandage dresses and great use of leather… Do you remember the Met Gala red leather dress that Anja wore? The motif of it was already Summer 2014 that has too a similar look. I also loved the dyed jeans- something new at Anthony, while for few seasons we see only mini skirt or evening gowns… For the first Paris Fashion Week collection this season, it feels already… Parisian. And that’s why this my favourite fashion week of all!

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Weird Party. Marc Jacobs SS14

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“It’s more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It’s a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway.” And this, more interestingly: “I didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks” said Marc Jacobs about his SS14 collection that with grace closed the New York Fashion Week. The venue was amazing- a huge, huge place, that reminded of something like a beach apocalypse- beach chairs, towels, sand, trees, cigarettes were lying in chaos everywhere. The models (the set of them was really impressive) were for example Cara Delevigne who flew straight from London through Atlantic to walk the runway for Marc and comeback on London Fashion Week… Sky Ferreira (!!!), Edie Campbell, Lily Mcmenamy, Georgia May Jagger and Hanne Gaby were also here. Coming back to collection, Marc Jacobs broke all the rules of the SS14 but in a good way- when everybody were into pure minimalism and pale clothes, MJ slapped it, with a print, embroidery and colour bomb- in a much darker colour than I expected. The clothes were inpired with Victorian era, widow weeds and some 21st century- birkenstocks again rocked the runway just like funny backpack totes! Definitely, that was one of these “weird” parties I would love to come…

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