Preppy. Molly Goddard AW23

I wanted to go back to a place of it feeling very simple. Like it was in the beginning. Just a little bit more honest. Fundamental, kind of, saying, ‘this is our reality’… basically, I’m feeling very stubborn.” To achieve that, Molly Goddard invited her fashion show guests into her Bethnal Green studio, her work home of five years. “What I found the biggest challenge of the season was not doing the thing that actually comes to me easiest, which is like a big, bright, colorful, enormous showstopper,” said the designer. This season, she used her signature material – tulle – in much more versatile and casually applicable forms. Additionally she deployed her knitwear mindset to create texture by manipulating the warp and weft of silhouette and fabrication. Grosgrain ribbon was horizontally integrated into handsome topcoats and blazers in blue and gray that resembled cleverly rethought prep school blazers (it kind of felt very Miu Miu). Later, when she succumbed to tulle, more ribbons acted to shape the silhouette and create pattern. There was tulle too in a couple of narrow-skirted leopard-print pieces including a pink-tinted skirt, which worn beneath a blue blazer and a crewneck scarlet knit set with a design inspired by a vintage flyer from Kensington Market had a cutely skewed preppiness to it. When the voluminous showstopper came at the last, it was cut in a pale gray fabric and cut on the bias – a pointedly uncolorful showstopper. “I think I’ve just felt a little bit freaked out by the fashion world recently. It’s easy to get so pushed along, and strung along, with the whole show of it.” By pushing back – and pulling the guests all out east London – Goddard claimed her agency and delivered a collection worked on her own terms.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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