Über 80’s. JW Anderson AW15

February 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Two years ago, I would never thought that Jonathan Anderson, the minimal kid from the block, will go 80’s. This period has it’s echo in previous collections, but never so much as in AW15. Corduroy trousers, velvet tops, über-80’s prints, and eccentric earring – it all makes me think about those ladies which sit and gossip about everyone at the market. The shoes seem to be terrific, too – their exggerated buckles and aim to “shorten” the legs are so “un-fashionable”. This collection in overall is not a fashionable one. J.W. Anderson simply showed an ironic, slightly satiric point of view on people, which try to look their best and at the same time look super cheesy. Additionally, the cheesy way of dressing appeared in the 80’s – so now everything is clear.

But is cheesy the new chic? J.W. Anderson possibly imposes an old new movement in fashion. This “thing” is surely going to be a hot topic for fashion journalists.

Diana Vreeland. Marc Jacobs AW15

February 20, 2015February 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“The eye has to travel” is a quote that always felt close to me. Who said it? Diana Vreeland, the queen of fashion from the 20th century. Fortunately, this quote is also important to Marc Jacobs – his AW15 collection definitely proves it. With a stormy temper, the models walked down the gloomy runway wearing Victorian gowns, Night Porter inspired sheer dresses, pilgrim shoes, art nouveau prints on flared skirts – you’ve got a feeling that you’re filtering a gorgeous Vogue edition which is guest edited by Marc. And Katie Grand, of course!

“She was a genius,” Jacobs said of the legendary Vogue editor, Diana, backstage. “She got the whole fashion thing: being decisive, being so excitable, and then being as passionate and dismissive about the very same thing the next day.” Jacobs read her Memos book while he was working on the Fall collection; the surprise is that he hasn’t made a muse of Vreeland before. “I felt like that’s what fashion is,” he continued, “that complete addiction, obsession, that I’ve-got-to-have-it need until I basically wouldn’t be caught dead in it.” The darkness changed into monochrome and bold red; the textiles were opulent and rich. As it’s the last show of New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs gave us a delicious dessert, leaving the best for the end.

Tribal Attack. Proenza Schouler AW15

February 20, 2015February 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I think Proenza Schouler discovered TOO many fields for AW15. Fish net tights. Tribal embroidery (feathers, some kind of jungle decoration which came out of nowhere) . Flesh-exposure (Helmut Lang’s calling!). It wouldn’t be a Proenza Schouler collection without the complex textile processes that make their pieces so special and so synthetic. Backstage, they called it their most technical collection yet – as they described sections of “chiffon needle-punched over over and again to create a stiffened fabric used on the tailoring and the tweed that was made out of strips of fabrics, that were especially woven for the purpose”. Even without knowing the ins and outs of all the fabrications, it was obvious that what pulsed through was pure innovation. But innovation doesn’t always mean a good collection. I prefer when the collection has a fluent line, even if it’s is called abstract, sophisticated or mindful. In this collection, Jack and Lazaro lost this fluency which they always mastered in previous collections. Plus, I can’t forgive the fish-net tights. But, look! They debuted with menswear! There is only one look for men, but. Although, I don’t feel this specific collection, I am truly interested where Proenza Schouler is heading in the future,

City Trotter. The Row AW15

February 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row is always a go-to label. It’s, as I said once, American version of Celine. It’s wearble and feminine. For fall, The Row approaches the customer with babooschka flats, flared trousers, leather robe coats, new “drum” bags and smooth, knitted turtlenecks. All of that sounds like a perfect kit for city trotters, which go to work in the morning and come back home in the evening after a dinner with friends. Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen brought out the old, good signatures that really sold well in the past season – the collection is good, but it lacks a boost the Olsen twins always bring. Of course, it’s a great base of #OOTD inspirations, but it feels a bit like a remix of the biggest The Row best-sellers.

Zigzags and Ibiza. The Elder Statesman AW15

February 17, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Once you’ve got a knit from The Elder Statesman, you don’t need any other in your life. The quality offered by Greg Chait’s label from America is out of this world. His apparel clothes are simple, yes, but they have this characteristic attitude. This fall, The Elder Statesman takes his women and men to Ibiza and Morocco, where the colour palette is warm, while the clothes worn are always practical, but bold in texture. Ponchos, knitted bermuda shorts, maxi dresses and cashmere t-shirts are all must-haves, if you ask me. As I wrote before in MANY other posts, I am obsessed with this label.