Between Morocco and California. Saint Laurent Resort 2020

The theme behind Anthony Vaccarello‘s resort 2020 line-up for Saint Laurent is parallel to his spring-summer menswear show staged on one of Malibu’s beaches. For both, Vaccarello had been thinking about how Morocco’s glittering hippie/boho enclaves of the late ’60s and early ’70s (distinctly Yves) are mirrored by the today’s free-spirited California. So, a black velvet smoking jacket, worn with a long black leather skirt with a fastening running down its front; a gold sequin lace camisole with white jeans; a pleated lurex skirt styled with boots, a barely-there tank-top and a big, heavy pendant… in terms of fashion, there’s nothing innovative (or even fresh) in Vaccarello’s “day-to-day” vision of a wardrobe. It nods to Yves’ eternal chic, yes, feels very California, yes, but in the end it still  looks like Hedi Slimane’s work for the house from the (not so distant) past. Really, how do clients choose between a denim, maxi-lenght skirt from Slimane’s Celine offering, and a nearly identical one with a Saint Laurent tag?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Le Souk. Jacquemus AW18

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While ooking at the latest Jacquemus collection, I want summer to be back so, so badly (even though it’s an autumn-winter collection). Also, I’ve got to visit Morocco, like right now. That’s the effect of Le Souk, Simon Porte‘s newest story.  “I got lost in the souks with just one thing on my mind: I want to make it my next summer collection. I came back to Paris and made my winter of it; my winter collection. Not wasting any more time, my warm winter.” The result? Well, doubtfully you will find any winter help in these clothes, that’s certain. But these caftan-dresses, clingy knits, hats (a Jacquemus best-selling signature) and cute skirts make you daydream. Jacquemus is one of Paris fashion week’s biggest excitements, and the designer brought us another reason to love him: he launches menswear. I can’t wait to see how he injects his joyful Frenchness into men’s clothes. See you in June.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.