Margot McKinney 18K Gold Multi-Stone Opal Drop Earrings
Puppets & Puppets Banana Leather Top-Handle Bag
Moschino
What’s Hot (22.8.24)
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Men’s – Life’s A Journey. Moschino SS25
Life is an unexpected journey: that’s the morale conveyed by Adrian Appiolaza‘s first menswear show for Moschino. Before he left Argentina for Europe, the designer once held down a job selling insurance. To present a respectable façade to potential clients, his employer obliged him to wear a company-provided suit. He felt like a prisoner of that ill-fitting, sad suit. That formative trauma collided with something once said by Franco Moschino himself: “it’s better to dress as you wish than as you should.” Appiolaza began his spring-summer 2025 story of resilience and traveling through life with ironic takes on corporate attire. A shirt skirt worn with a real shirt but unreal suspenders and a four-button suit teamed with three hats were amongst the first of many cheeky, archival references. The soccer-ball sweater teamed with a tri-starred baseball cap was a salute back to Argentina, while the Italian flag soccer couple – one with an authentic red sauce splattering! – was a gesture to Appiolaza’s new creative home. Franco Moschino’s recurring goose motif returned in prints on skirts and shirting in a hokey, bucolic countrywear duet. The closing looks reminisced something accidental lovers would wear – and get married in – on a nameless island after a ship wreck. The all-white heavy linen suit with a sleeve skirt is a fresh take on groomswear. The models walked their finale around piles of lost luggage that symbolized the tangle of transformational journey narratives. This designer is really on to something with his vision for Moschino.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Moschi-yes. Moschino AW24
Adrian Appiolaza‘s Moschino debut collection felt like a gush of much-needed fresh air in Milan – and the beginning of a very promising, new chapter. The brand needed an urgent revamp after a decade of Jeremy Scott’s camp over-the-topness. In November, the heart-breaking passing of Davide Renne (who became the forth creative director of Franco Moschino’s label just a month earlier), shocked the entire fashion industry. Appiolaza’s appointment was announced barely a month ago, and his first collection – completed in such short period of time – proves that he’s a supremely talented designer. The autumn-winter 2024 collection reflects the tongue-in-cheek spirit of the brand’s founder through a number of riffs and referenced: the over-sized silhouettes, XXL polka-dots and tomato prints, Rene Magritte-esque prints and the in-your-face flag of Italy used as the colour blocking palette for a couple of dresses and tops. Appiolaza also managed to convey the nearly-forgotten, super-chic spirit of the house which was contrived by Rosella Jardini in the 2000s: think slip-dresses covered in pearl necklaces or finely cut tailoring. But the line-up tells us a lot about Appiolaza himself, who for a decade worked at Loewe, and earlier with such creatives as Clare Waight Keller, Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada. The Buenos Aires-born designer is an avid vintage fashion collector – make sure to follow his page on Instagram! – with a soft spot for Martin Margiela and Comme Des Garçons. There’s an interesting connection between Moschino and Margiela – both designers played with surrealism and deconstruction, but in aesthetically different ways. Appioloza showed a bustier made from ties; trench coats worn inside-out; hats that looked like paper boats. Those little moments of humor are what Moschino used to be in its origins, and the new creative director certainly embraces that in a stylish, unconstrained way. Bravissimo!
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Design & Culture by Ed 