If boys in Milan dress to uni like this, then I think I’m moving in. “We did an extensive casting in all the Milanese universities and we picked up great new faces,” Massimo Giorgetti said backstage before his MSGM autumn-winter 2018 show. It was staged in Milan’s historic Università Statale – no surprise, noting the presence of the very academic models. The ideas behind the season’s prints and attitude was, in a way, a field investigation. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” the designer noted. There were the off-duty hoodies styled with more dandy-ish, checked pants; vintage-y knits and college jackets, made in duvet. It’s for the book-loving and for the night-out goers at the same time. “Less street, more chic, almost ‘bravo ragazzo’ (good guy)” – in other words, Italian goodness. Rather than going for something too nerdy, Massimo emphasized the youthful optimism, ready for the future.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Massimo Giorgetti is the creator of Milan’s most flat and, shockingly, playful brand – MSGM is the label that made Milan Fashion Week much more youthful place to come to. MSGM is also the commercial best-seller – so why not make its designer the new creative director of Emilio Pucci, an Italian house with a strong heritage and signature? Peter Dundas, the former designer of the house, moved to Roberto Cavalli (a perfect match – over-sexualised cocktail dresses at the most opulent brand I know) and now it is the time for a revamp. The “zero” collection for Resort 2016 was promising – the clothes were interesting and the codes of the house became more edgy. But what about the real, runway debut? Well, it is good. But just good. And that’s a pity because the anticipation was big. The sailor motive was reflected in various shades of blue and masculine silhouettes; the embroideries of fish and sea-shells did look precious. But it feels a bit like Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe, Nicolas Ghesquiere’s Louis Vuitton and Alessandro Dell AcQua’s No21. Modern, innovative and romantic at the same time. Even the accessories, which caught my eye instantly, didn’t help. Hopefully next season will be more clear for Massimo’s attitude towards Pucci. Now, it looks like an expensive, luxurious version of MSGM.