Sensational. Mugler AW20

Casey Cadwallader‘s Mugler is sensational. His vision of the brand is compatible with Thierry Mugler’s dramatic, super sexual vision of the brand, but makes it look contemporary and fit for women of all sizes and generations. A good many of the looks on his fall runway weren’t even street legal. Wearing the body stockings – sheer save for black insets echoing Mugler’s famously dangerous curves – would require a bodyguard. Mesh dresses studded with a grid-like precision were somewhat more discreet and a shade more democratic for that reason. Cadwallader adopted a similarly fierce attitude for his tailoring. Much of it was cut from leather. He also continues in mastering his stretch pieces. Jackets were shaped by integral corsets, or else they came with portrait necklines that framed the bust. He even went so far as to build garter belts into the waistbands of a couple of leather skirts. Cadwallader is one of the few designers that sees sexy in all sizes. There “are 2s, 4s, 6s, 8s, 10s,” he said of his lineup. “You feel them turning on when they put on these clothes.” Big yes.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Body. Mugler SS20

While Casey Cadwallader‘s Mugler tailoring and corsetry is razor sharp, it’s also unbelievably body-loving and inclusive. For spring-summer 2020, the designer made a meaningful statement: his vision of the brand isn’t just for Instagram bodies, but for all. Yes, maybe Bella Hadid opened the show (she’s the only social-media-model I like), but the clothes were represented by women of different colors, sizes and gender identities. Kembra Pfahler took a runway turn, just like Debra Shaw, Karen Elson and Hanne Gaby Odiele. And the clothes? They were great, possibly the best we’ve seen from Cadwallader throughout his time at the label. Thierry Mugler’s vintage work from the ’80s and ’90s is the key inspiration for Casey, but he doesn’t let nostalgia ruin it. Exaggerated proportions and twisted glamour continue to be super seductive thanks to the usage of performance fabrics, while keeping the aesthetic clean and sharp lets Mugler look relevant and fresh. The more daring ones may choose a cropped jacket, net corset, and derrière-lifting stockings. The ones looking for something more day-ish, yet equally empowering, please take a look at the satin trench coat, an over-sized lilac blazer or the draped pencil skirts.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.