While Casey Cadwallader‘s Mugler tailoring and corsetry is razor sharp, it’s also unbelievably body-loving and inclusive. For spring-summer 2020, the designer made a meaningful statement: his vision of the brand isn’t just for Instagram bodies, but for all. Yes, maybe Bella Hadid opened the show (she’s the only social-media-model I like), but the clothes were represented by women of different colors, sizes and gender identities. Kembra Pfahler took a runway turn, just like Debra Shaw, Karen Elson and Hanne Gaby Odiele. And the clothes? They were great, possibly the best we’ve seen from Cadwallader throughout his time at the label. Thierry Mugler’s vintage work from the ’80s and ’90s is the key inspiration for Casey, but he doesn’t let nostalgia ruin it. Exaggerated proportions and twisted glamour continue to be super seductive thanks to the usage of performance fabrics, while keeping the aesthetic clean and sharp lets Mugler look relevant and fresh. The more daring ones may choose a cropped jacket, net corset, and derrière-lifting stockings. The ones looking for something more day-ish, yet equally empowering, please take a look at the satin trench coat, an over-sized lilac blazer or the draped pencil skirts.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.