Focus On: Nicholas Daley

In support for the Black community, I continue celebrating and highlighting the talented individuals that shape fashion today. Take notes! Nicholas Daley’s keen sense for fashion is matched by his taste in music. After spring-summer 2020’s live jazz performance, he upped the ante for the autumn-winter 2020 line-up with a fashion show that kicked off an entire night of events at Earth, the landmark East London venue. His musician girlfriend Nabihah Iqbal came up with the title of the new collection, “The Abstract Truth,” and shared billing with U.K. dub legend Mala among other artists at the after-party. “I like my shows to be about community, it’s always a friends and family affair,” said Daley speaking backstage between sets. To warm up the crowd for the fashion portion of the evening, he enlisted a trio of young South London musicians – Rago Foot, Kwake Bass and Wu-Lu – to perform a live score. Borrowing from the world of experimental jazz and psychedelic rock, the music gave song to the wide-ranging references in the new collection, including afro-futurism and the black abstract art movement of the 1970s. He was particularly drawn to the work of Frank Bowler whose first major retrospective opened at the Tate this time last year. The Guyanese-born artist’s vibrant “pour paintings” came through most vividly in a show-stopping hooded poncho. Daley has a knack for spinning utility clothing with a sense of specialness. In place of camo, he used a handsome khaki green jacquard patterned with hand-drawn lines to elevate his fishing-style vests and Crombie coats. The designer’s commitment to supporting local craftspeople is ongoing. In addition to working with an English mill on the custom jacquard, he dug into the archives of Scottish tartan maker Loch Carron, unearthing two particularly striking mohair checks, both of which added a rich hand to slouchy button-down jackets and peg-leg pants. Those traditional British tropes were remixed with handfuls of neo-boho accessories – coin-trimmed necklaces and scarves, knitted crossbody bags and berets – and that magpie eclecticism felt fresh and contemporary. With models sporting Jimi Hendrix–inspired coifs, the groovier elements of the collection were nicely amplified. The musicians looked just as cool, dressed in all black and with Daley’s new oversize baker boy hats and genius coin-trimmed sneakers both made in partnership with Adidas.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

There’s Only One Kylie

There’s only one Kylie. I mean Kylie Minogue – the singer that continues to bless us with her voice for three decades already. I literally grew up to her songs, starting from 1999 up to now. My mom knows every single album and  used to dance to the crazy Locomotion as a teenager. Basically speaking, Kylie is an icon. So going to her concert in Berlin, on the occasion of her Golden Tour, was an experience I won’t forget for a long, long time. Her slow Slow killed us, the viewers, with all the sexiness. Can’t Get You Out of My Head went totally rock & roll. All The Lovers was a moment we all felt the love, while Fever set the audience on fire. Kylie also sang Where the Wild Roses Grow, without any instrumental background, which was especially beautiful. If she’s coming to your town – her tour ends in the summer of 2019 I think – buy the tickets. I tell you, wou won’t regret that!

Overpowered. Love.

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There are many reasons to adore Róisín Murphy. From her days with Moloko to the Italian-disco inspired EP titled Mi senti, this idiosyncratic Irish singer is a true gem. Even if you’re not a total sucker for her electronic tunes, you’ve got to admit that her style is bomb. While today she rather wears Vetements tea-dresses and garments coming fresh from graduate designers’ studios, back in her Overpowered period Murphy wore the most extravagant garments coming from, for example, Viktor & Rolf (she had a life performance at the brand’s spring-summer 2010 fashion show as well). But also, she had the most memorable Gareth Pugh coat moment in the video-clip of the album’s namesake track. Later, in Let Me Know, Róisín graciously danced and messed around in a cheesy bistro, wearing a Maison Margiela cape and bold fuchsia gloves (that was the moment I fell in love with fashion, really, at age of eight). And today, when I listen to Dear Miami or You Know Me Better, it’s unbelievable that Murphy was more ‘2017’ than any other musician today. Back in 2007!

Madonna Day

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Although Madonna‘s birthday happens only once in a year, and it’s today, I wouldn’t mind celebrating her personality everyday. So if you’re one of those people who ‘hate’ Madonna for her being her, then you better leave this spot, as it’s a heavy appreciation post. Whether photographed by Steven Klein, Steven Meisel or Rankin; whether posing in boudoir, going dirty with Tony Ward or confessing her love on the dance floor; whether dressed in Italianesque black lace or an all-American gear – she’s Madonna. While exploring blogs like this one, fully dedicated to her persona, I’m awestruck with the way she has changed and keeps on changing. Just like in music, where she’s can be fully soaked with emotions and then become ecstatically happy. A style maverick and an extraordinary artist.

Happy Birthday!

Men’s / Lemaire SS18

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A two-piece band from Berlin named Die Wilde Jagd performed during Lemaire‘s spring-summer 2018 fahion show, which was staged in an industrial garage space. Music, and specifically the one coming from Germany, played an important role for Christophe Lemaire‘s and Sarah Linh Tran‘s creative process this season. In a line of black and navy looks, suddenly a red cotton poplin overshirt emerged. “It’s super minimal,” Christophe said backstage. “I was really driven by all those German bands I loved from the ’70s and early ’80s, like Kraftwerk, this kind of stylish, German, super-normal thing.” Ah!  The idea behind the unprecedented red came from “the cover of The Man-Machine. And the all-white look, that oversize zippered blouson and the sneaker boots, is a reference to La Düsseldorf.” Cultural context is all in fashion.

Back to the collection, Lemaire delivers its all time signatures for men, like perfectly tailored blazers, tank-tops for heatwave periods and spring-ready coats. The designers invited Portuguese craftsmen to produce the semi-closed sandals, making your grandpa’s footwear a thing to steal.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

#InstaLOVE – June 2017

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@vogueparisarchives

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you’re ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my June recommendations!

@loudoillon / The French singer’s doodles and captured moments, whether featuring her escape to Bretagne or a throwback pic with mum (read: Jane Birkin). A summer must-follow!

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@papoozband / Ok, French musicians have the best feeds. Papooz’s Ulysse Cottin (lead guitar, vocals) and Armand Penicaut (rhythm guitar) are partners in their proffesional and private life. Lately, they’ve released the ultimate chill-out track (accompanying a dreamy video clip filmed in Japan) Good Times on Earth. What to expect from their Instagram? Lots of behind-the-stage fun.

@vogueparisarchives / Chic-ness. From early Inez & Vinoodh editorials to a Sofia Coppola shoot, this feed has the finest of Vogue Paris.

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@mollymgoddard / Molly Goddard is London’s beloved girl. The fashion designer is praised for her great love for anything tulle and for making princess-dresses have a comeback to the industry. The picture above was taken minutes before LVMH Prize Awards last Friday (unfortunately, she didn’t win the main prize…). Still, that dress on the right is love.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

 

#InstaLOVE – May 2017

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@lynettegarland

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my May recommendations!

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@sokothecat / This French actress (The Dancer) and musician (her latest track, Sweet Sound of Ignorance), Stéphanie Sokolinsky (aka Soko), is the ultimate definition of badass cool. With her post-grunge, punk-lolita aesthetic, the multidisciplinary artist has scored her place in the fashion world. Soko is the girl you want to have at your New York garden party. Alessandro Michele knows how to launch a Gucci fragrance with a wow: just bring Soko and Lana Del Rey under MoMA PS1’s roof. Petra Collins, Hari Nef, Dakota Johnson, hi!

@lynettegarland / Love Magazine’s stylist, recently working for Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs: take a look at Garland’s moody backstage images and black & white musings.

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@graciehartzel / If she’s not modelling for the likes of Tom Ford or Chanel, Grace contributes to La Femme, a French psych punk band. Take a look at her intriguing DIY make-up looks once you hit her Instagram!

@saylouloumusic / Mirandra and Elektra Kilbey’s Say Lou Lou is a twin sister musical duo hailing from Australia and Sweden. Planning to listen to their songs, but for now it’s their sun bathed and chic feed that keeps we absorbed.

@_ju_lien_ / Julien Baulu is a Paris-based fashion consultant and researcher, who has a soft point for vintage issues of Vogue Paris, cult Elle covers and unforgettable Harper’s Bazaar editions. My magazine collection is quite a yawn comparing to his. A must follow.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

All That Jazz. Undercover SS17

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Jun Takahashi is the designer behind one of the most avant-garde brand originating from Japan – Undercover. Every collection delivered by him is a separate story, subverting the reality of ready-to-wear into something much more sophisticated, nearly magical. For spring-summer 2017, Jun investigated the world of jazz, his favourite music genre. However, it’s not the mood of Chicago musical and sultry-hot “And All That Jazz” song! Saxophones were printed in an old-fashioned, trompe l’oeil-style on t-shirts and wide pants, while the last, spectacular looks were three leather outfits kept in a collage-like patchwork of drums, keyboards and trumpets. A new, fresh glance at a ‘dandy’ – worth considering next spring.

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Men’s – Gender Culture. Casely-Hayford SS17

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The father-and-son duo, Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford, have many reasons to call spring-summer 2016 collection one of the biggest highlights of their career up to date. What pleasantly surprised everyone during the show was the fact that the fash-fam introduced a womenswear capsule, accompanying their festival-cool menswear looks. “We’ve been asked about doing it for years,” said Charlie. “Now felt right. We want to dress a woman who is a partner to the Casely-Hayford man—but she is very much independent and different to him too.” Their debut in the world of women was like the feeling of a breeze by the sea, so refreshing. Jacquard, which was used in coats production, was made with a more than 200-years old weaving mill, while the dresses with knitted details in sharp, summer-y colours, will be the right choice for warm days. Casely-Hayford is known for top-notch tailoring, but in contrast to their Savile Row friends who do strictly elegant suits, this label breaks the well-known conventions. No wonder why the women’s part was as focused on perfectly-cut blazers as men’s, and was equally edgy. The moodboard behind the collection was filled a variety of British music movements, from 70s rock and Jimi Hendrix to 00s grime and Mick Jagger. With all that diversity in mind, there was a sharp game of oriental patterns, paisley, bleach splashes and tie-dye textiles. Also, spot the richness of jewellery – tribal necklaces and pendants (which looked like great, flea-market finds) were worn nonchalantly by both genders with embroidered robe-coats and denim jackets. Looking forward to see how Joe and Charlie will continue their new, even more daring chapter in fashion!

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