Yuppy! Francisco Costa celebrates the tenth anniversary at helm of Calvin Klein! It is a milestone, so no wonder his guests (Rooney Mara!), new venue and the after-party reflected with huge echo during the NYC Fashion Week! As you could observe on my blog, I have never been a huge fan of Calvin Klein, but this season Francisco impressed me with this season. The light dresses with these cool elements that flow in the air while moving are just perfect for dancing and these wide trousers… oh, so cool! The mixture of colours was also very interesting- white, mint green and pastel pink. What should I say more- LOVE IT!
Music
Saint Laurent Boots
For two months I am a number one fan of Saint Laurent AW13 collection by Hedi Slimane. I am in love to death with the California grunge inspired looks full of checks, leather and mini dresses. And these LA musician influenced boots are like the best thing in the collection. But why the #%^*@ are they so, so expensive? Hey, 5685€ is alright? No, not Hedi is mad Cathy Horyn, but the person that is dealing with commercial part for SL. These boots with the “DIY” decoration are beautiful, but not for 5000 and more euros. But, Slimane thought of more normal people and created the cheaper version of these boots for 1500€- without anything special. Just black, normal grunge boots. This is not same effect, but what shall I do? Still cool… 😋😋😋😋
Collection AW13: Saint Laurent
Saying that Hedi Slimane is lazy, as wrote Cathy Horyn, is a simple bah. A guy who redesigns everything from the logo to the showroom furnitures in his boutiques of Saint Laurent, doesn’t seem to be lazy at all. Hedi Slimane did a huge revolution at Saint Laurent and in fashion world, that seemed to be very peaceful comparing AW13 with the grunge/punk/Roc &Roll collection. And in reality, Slimane didn’t do this for more controversy- no, it’s all simply his aesthetics. When the designer of SL is not at work, he isn’t kissing Pinault’s ass for money but hangs out with friends/musicians in LA! So there is nothing that is done for more money. Well it is, but it’s not enforcing. People will still buy this kind of Yves Saint Laurent. So, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane wins the second place in AW13 ranking of best collections!
Men’s: SLIMane. Saint Laurent SS14
The Enfant Terrible of French Fashion did it again just as he usually does- Hedi Slimane made me and all others, first of all excited, then scared, shocked and amazed in elusive way. Even, if his collections have a straight meaning, they are elusive. Hedi takes on his shows the ugliest in the world models, then put California garage band rock and roll music possibly recorded day before the show and some kind of Johnny Cash/rich boy from Las Vegas clothes. By the way, he doesn’t give a f***. I can’t say that I would wear any of these clothes (but love the shoes!) but I can’t say that don’t like the collection! It is totally different from other menswear, full of minimalism and prints. It’s as cool as AW13 womenswear for SL.
Cool biker jackets, leopard prints, gold, ties and suits. All in a very rock and roll edition, but in a more exclusive and “casino boy” look. Of course everything is extremely slim, that I personally hate (I love loose clothes) but thats totally other topic. For sure Slimane wasn’t at all in Paris while creating the collection. Los Angeles, hometown of the designer? California? It’s more about American coolness than European elegance. For this I respect Hedi Slimane as fashion designer!
Men’s: Heavy Metal. Rick Owens SS14
What a show was that! When Rick Owens invited Estonian heavy metal band Winny Puhh (yes, that means Winnie The Pooh), he says he felt “an instant jolt of recognition. And Estonian is such an alien language that when it’s shrieked at you by a guy in a wolf mask, it becomes major.” They had it all that Rick needed for his show- scary, sleazy and hardcore look. If you don’t know Winny Puhh, and hadn’t a chance to know what is Eurovisia in Europe then I will shortly explain that. Eurovisia is a expensive, but cheap looking TV show that is hosted everytime in different countries of Europe. It’s popular in Europe, but mostly European are ashamed of it… And it’s demolic choreography, WORST singers of the specific country and the cheap, sorrow atmosphere. So, back to Rick Owens show- that sounds very interesting and different that he took these strangers for music thing for his show. Owens’ was called Vicious. That was the spirit Owens wanted—”cheerful viciousness, viciousness with humor. I felt like doing something ludicrous and fun.” The clothes- well, in rhythm of the music the models nearly ran. “Urgent movement and fierce athleticism were the driving forces of the collection. Long-sleeve tees, close to the body, zipped even closer, over shorts…sheer diagonals, perforations, and mesh tanks revealing the flesh beneath…leather tanks flying away into long fringe, fringed leather belts…everything moving” wrote Tim Blanks. Totally agree. That was something awfully mind blowing.
Design & Culture by Ed 