Woman. Chloé SS19

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Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s third runway season for Chloé was a lot different from the first two, but felt distinctly like her. That’s already a sign – this woman has her own, complex style that she develops and develops, without losing some sort of personal idiosyncrasy. For spring-summer 2019, the designer investigated her more eclectic aesthetic. Think breezy, summery feel with 70s prints, amulet jewels and flowy dresses. The collection had something nomadic about it, but Natacha escaped the clichés of boho style. Tie-dye t-shirts worn with fringed mini skirts looked festival-ready, while the scarf tops, pants and dresses looked light and easy. There were also rope belts; paisley patterns all over silk pantaloons; knitted pullovers worn over loosely fit, crotchet blousons. Ramsay-Levi respects Gaby Aghion’s (Chloé’s founder) liberated femininity that was never based on regular ‘prettiness’ or specific beauty canon. The current Chloé designer’s femininity is equally strong and multi-faceted. While others do princess dresses for the closing look, Natacha sent down a pleated, maxi-length gown suited for a Goddess (note that gorgeous collar and the Grecian bracelets). To sum up: the ready-to-wear is completely desirable, the accessories are on point. With this collection, Ramsay-Levi proves once again that she’s a skilled designer, who’s capable of creating a consistent, yet simultaneously exciting vision of the brand. This seems to be shockingly rare in the industry, especially when you browse the majority of this season’s line-ups. Bravo, Natacha!

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

 

Consistently Exciting. Chloé Resort 2019

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Natacha Ramsay-Levi makes Chloé bloom, even if she’s not resorting to floral prints as her predecessors. I mean, her Chloé is so good. Her first seasons characterised with smart consistency which is capable of being exciting. And with each collection, Natacha seems to grow in confidence. For resort 2019, the designer continues to play with Chloé codes, like the horse print, but experiments more freely with volumes and styling. I love how that Victorian-sleeping-gown dress gets more badass with the knee-length leather boots. Ramsay-Levi does the Chloé flou, but she doesn’t fall into that dangerously naive, over-feminine trap. That woman isn’t here to be blown away by the wind in the middle of a field. It’s urban chic for self-aware, conscious females.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

New Sensuality. Chloé AW18

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The modernist architecture of Maison de la Radio anticipated Natacha Ramsay-Levi‘s  contemporary sensuality that the designer implements at Chloé. In her second season for the house, Natacha’s vision becomes even clearer and understandable. Chloé is no longer a label with flowing dresses for running around the fields. It’s a brand for women of profession, culture, life. Vintage lace, tiers of goat hair and knitted ruffles were beautifully combined with earth tones and subtle cuts. Ramsay-Levi’s femininity, however, clashes with something slightly more heavy: think boots with metalwork heels or chain necklaces made of gold pendants, coins and keys. While Chloé seems to be the most realistic and powerful collection of this Paris fashion week up to now, note it’s not a Phoebe Philo clichéd tribute collection. It’s impressive to see, how Natacha builds her own, idiosyncratic language for the females of today.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

At Home. Chloé Pre-Fall 2018

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If you ask Natacha Ramsay-Levi to define her own style, the answer won’t be as straightforward as you would expect from a designer.  “I admire people who have a uniform, but I’ve never found mine and I probably never will because I love fashion’s diversity,” she explained. Pre-fall 2018 is Natacha’s second collection for Chloé, a female-loving French maison, and it already feels that even if she doesn’t have an arbitrary ‘look’ that has to end up in the stores, she feels here like at home. And that’s good – thanks to that, the creative director’s work has a sense of easiness. What we discovered about Ramsay-Levi in her debut is that she has a soft point for jaw-dropping boots and whimsical jewellery (those pieces smoothly transit into the autumn days). Here, it’s a strong game of cognac leather coats, shirt-dresses and 70s blouses. Also, the designer wisely does the horse-rider style that’s distinctly Chloé, whether we’re speaking of the tiny horse prints on bags or wool capes. Although white socks tend to get on my nerves after 2017’s Vetements obsession, the way Natacha pulls them off in her refined pre-fall makes you wonder, whether luxe-y athleisure is back.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.