Natalia Maczek

For a moment, let’s switch from resort look-books and New York’s off-the-schedule runways to Warsaw’s socrealist icon – Palace of Culture. Few days ago, Natalia Maczek and Tomek Wirski did their spring-summer 2019 runway show for the first time in Warsaw. MISBHV stands for so many things: to some, it’s a go-to streetwear label favoured by the big names (Kylie and all). For others, it’s an internationally recognized label that sells in stores among Vetements and Raf Simons. And the other others (like my friends, for instance) know it for great hoodies with intriguing prints.

This season, however, Maczek and Wirski wanted to explore new fields and do something different than usual. Having deep interests in the Polish 50s and 60s, the designers immersed themselves in a theme that doesn’t come up to you instantly when thinking of the brand. Jazz, or rather “Polish Jazz” (as the collection’s name suggests), became the season’s key-point. Moreover, MISBHV invited Rosław Szaybo, the legendary Polish graphic designer (who did album covers for Miles Davis, Janis Joplin and, of course, the cult “Polish Jazz” series) to collaborate on the prints. Blurring the lines between womenswear and menswear, the label’s latest offering includes flowing dresses, over-sized blazers, bike shorts, PVC coats and headscarves (a beautiful nod to Slavic culture!). But there are MISBHV classics as well, like the WARSZAWA print or friendly-to-the-public t-shirts. Polish fashion keeps on evolving, slowly, but it does. And seeing brands like MISBHV having such progress, and executing their visions so well, makes me really proud.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki featuring Wojciech Plewiński’s photograph of Warsaw; Rosław Szaybo’s album covers.

I can sum up my love to MISBHV in this simple way – Russians have Gosha Rubchinskiy, Western Europe has Vetements, and Poles have Natalia Maczek‘s label. So, you’ve guessed right, seeing a Polish brand having a presentation in New York makes me super, super proud. MISBHV, a label that since its very beginnings caused longing desire in my, and my friends’ hearts. Maybe that’s why spring-summer 2017 collection for women is entitled “Object of Desire“? Before, MISBHV’s main focus was on menswear, but the success of HARD CORE or WARSZAWA sweatshirts among women meant something – it was high time for a new chapter.

For her first New York show, Natalia openly admits that she was obsessed with the idea of a 17-year-old girl from 00s, who loves disco. The naive character of this girl contrasts with rough party raving and the character of techno music – she wants to look her best, trying out unconventional combinations made up of her teenager clothes. Zirconia embellished crop-tops, pink chokers in leather, raw-cut t-shirts resembling heavy-metal concert souvenirs – this is the world of MISBHV, based on nostalgic fashion horrors and DIY styling. Denim pieces, like the elongated pants or laced-up slit skirt, are my absolute favourites. Of course, I can’t be too saccharine – it’s fairly noticeable that MISBHV isn’t far from today’s most relevant aesthetic (the uglier the better). But, I don’t mind. I’m celebrating Maczek’s and her team’s success like a national holiday.