new york fashion week

Reclaiming. Luar AW25

| Design & Culture by Ed

Luar closed New York Fashion Week with a much-needed bang. Raul Lopez named his autumn-winter 2025 collection “Pato“. In Spanish, pato means duck, as in the bird, but in some parts of Latin America, such as Puerto Rico, it’s a homophobic slur. “I wanted to reclaim that word,” said Lopez. “Especially right now – I’m not going back in the closet for no one.” That powerful bravado was conveyed in a collection that was a powerful, dynamic homage to all the fashion patos that shaped Lopez’s imagination as a kid: think John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix. You could also sense Claude Montana’s influence. Major 1980s energy was all over these big shoulders, attitude-giving tailoring and extravagant feather brooches. A plastic, tape-like texture was a recurring motif. “It’s all hodgepodge,” Lopez explained. “The gay boy who’s at home playing with his mom’s jewelry, wrapping a towel around his head to pretend it’s hair, wants to wear a thigh high boot but just wraps a bunch of duct tape around his legs.” This week, fashion in New York had no voice. Until Lopez arrived with his vivacious outing.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Femininity Anew. Tory Burch AW25

| Design & Culture by Ed

Tory Burch is on a roll again. Here’s one of the most convincing collections we’ve seen during this entire New York Fashion Week, one that doesn’t try to be reinvent minimalism, but offers a mindful outlook on femininity. From the playful cardigans that can be wrapped around your body to velvet pea-green trackpants, from utilitarian leather jackets with pockets inspired by an Ingo Maurer wall organizer to unashamedly full, 1950s-isnpired flared wool skirts, this collection satisfies the mind and senses. The line-up doesn’t feel like an afterthought. Moreover, it doesn’t look like a copy of a copy. It’s Tory. The new Tory we have the pleasure to see thrive lately.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Women Of Flesh & Bone. Altuzarra AW25

| Design & Culture by Ed

Joseph Altuzarra is in his most delicious creative era… ever. Forget collections inspired with sunny, far-fetched destinations or film titles – thematic line-ups that (over)defined Altuzarra for over a decade. The New York-based designer now finds interest in personalities. Real ones. His latest outing, presented in his chic Woolworth Building headquarters, was dedicated to women of the Big Apple. The Lee Radziwills and Sarah Jessica Parkers, the Edie Sedgwicks and Ladies of Madison Avenue. Women of flesh-and-bone, who equally love a proper evening dress with a fringed big hat and a shaggy shearling coat worn as a dress, styled with heels and tights only. But if I had to compare this collection to a fictional persona, I would pick Nicole Kidman’s phenomenal portrayal of Babygirl‘s Romy – a New York businesswoman on a quest of self-discovery.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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This Is Real. Eckhaus Latta AW25

| Design & Culture by Ed

Finally, cool, honest, not-overworked and real clothes in New York. Eckhaus Latta delivers a collection of brilliant garments that feel lived-in – and you want to live in. Thick knits, sensual jerseys, rough leathers, flesh-revealing cuts. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta acutely observe how their friends dress on the daily basis, and this collection sums up their notes. Obsessed with the Steven Meisel-ish headbands for the guys.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Feminine Energy. Colleen Allen AW25

| Design & Culture by Ed

Colleen Allen is a designer that brings hope to New York Fashion Week. Her autumn-winter 2025 lookbook is a delightful blend of what she’s already recognized for – curiosity for Victorian-era garments and a certain elusive, beguiling witchiness – and a new-found sensuality seen through a witty lens. The collection is modelled by the artist Kembra Pfahler, whose famous layered imprints of her buttocks on canvas inspired Allen. “It was like a fuck you way of referencing Yves Klein and how he used to utilize the female body as a paint brush,” she said, explaining her choice of blue in this season’s blue velvet coat-dress. In general, this collection had a thing to do with “a little bit of butt,” as the designer stated. The coats have an exaggerated back cut, offering playful peekaboo moment for a bum glimpse. This extremely talented designer is channeling a new, badass, feminine energy that fashion needs – through a female gaze.

In case you missed my interview with Colleen – here’s the link!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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