The moment I saw Area‘s resort 2018 collection, I had Fergie spelling ‘glamorous’ in my head. So G-L-A-M-O-R-O-U-S.
Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk‘s retro-meets-futurist allure is New York’s latest obsession, whether we’re speaking of their cocktail-ready evening wear or rhinestone hoops. The look-book’s highlights are definitely the intricately embellished sweatpants and hoodies in black. Don’t you agree they redefine the meaning of ‘night-out’ pieces? A peach jacket and candy-pink midi skirts are the more day-to-day elements of the collection, but equally desirable. Also, that Veruschka-inspired hair makes this seductive collection even more drop-dead gorgeous. This season, however, it seems that the designers look towards the Middle East – the fez hats were a quite literal clue. Well, I somehow can see those luxe, yet unpretentious pieces worn near Dubai’s tallest skyscrapers or around the man-made beaches. It’s kind of low-key Carrie Bradshaw / Samatha Jones in the Sex And The City’s desert escapade.
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen‘s resort 2018 collection is distinctively The Row. The designers’ subtle minimalism appears in every single piece in that short, black-and-white look-book. From a cashmere, patchworked knit to a taffeta gown with bell sleeves (note that it’s in delightful shade of pink in reality), that’s a very luxe, yet understated wardrobe for the upcoming spring.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki (feautruing Cy Twombly’s artwork).
Glam isn’t dead! And nothing proves that better than Marc Jacobs‘ enchanting spring-summer 2018 collection, the delicious finale of New York fashion week. It was, as Alexander Fury ecstatically wrote on Instagram, stupendous, stupefyingly brilliant, the Yves Saint Laurent haute couture at the gym moment, so up meets down. This can’t be stated in any other way. That was a fabulous explosion of colour, embroidery, prints. And, it was presented with unbelievable modesty – no venue decorations, no music. Just the clothes, the most diverse cast of models, and Jacobs’ affection for fashion. From voluminous coats to evening gowns, from wrapped turbans to fluffy sandals, from mega polka-dots to childish daisies – it’s a rhapsody. If the rumour has it that Marc Jacobs is thinking of leaving his company – and I can’t believe what would Marc Jacobs be without Marc – then he’s really showing a middle finger to corpo-stats of ‘what sells, what doesn’t’ with that collection.
P.s. Days before New York fashion week, I was wondering what will the main subject – fashion – be like among the local designers. Will the political climate have the same, dark effect as last season? With bold collections from such names as Tom Ford, Calvin Klein and Marc, of course, New York’s fashion scene bares it all and says ‘you won’t break us’. Fashion is a happy place, after all, and lets just lose ourselves to it.
Spontaneity has various meanings for Maryam Nassir Zadeh, and this season especially. The fashion show, with a running track as a venue, was in fact open for public and anyone could literally run the runway. The models (Zadeh’s friends-you-want-to-be-friends with like Ana Kras, Susan Cianciolo, Camilla Deterre and Mari Giudicelli) and their looks also had a sense of arty co-incidence. The signature ‘odd elegance’, as Maryam often defines, is about mixing and layering the most unexpected colour combinations and un-matchy pieces. A baby-pink dress in vichy print was transparent and neatly presented the label’s swimwear; buttoned corset was worn over another summer-y dress, but in cool mint-green; sweet polka-dots on a crop-top met with knee-length pants in beige. In case of the third outfit, I have never thought that a combo like this can be pulled off with such grace. Again, I’m obsessed with MNZ’s colour palette, because it’s so free of conventions and rules. Just like Solange, whose life performance – you see, not everything is SO spontaneous – gave audience the chills.