Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen presented one of the most refined collections for autumn-winter 2017, reaching the feeling of Calvin Klein’s early minimalism and Helmut Lang’s authentically raw, New York coolness. For pre-fall 2017, the twins continue their exploration of austerity and softness, offering a selection of The Row classics. The 90s rough modesty is perceivanble thanks to Zoë Ghertner’s images of Erin O’Connor, who poses in thick grey coats, black turtlenecks and delightful slim maxi-dresses. As soon as colder days strike, those timeless pieces will be there to serve.
Although Tom Ford has resigned from the see-now buy-now business strategy, that doesn’t mean he feels dissapointed – his autumn-winter 2017 look-book is the best prove for that. Atrakhan scrotum bags, metallic square-toe heels, empowering fur coats, sequinned turtlenecks, multi-coloured tights, PVC jackets… those are the clothes to kill and to kill for. ‘Cocktail dress’ sounds pretentiously, but according to Ford it’s a timeless go-to piece for every evening event. Whether in black velvet and with over-sized shoulder-pads or as a kimono hybrid, the designer goes burning hot this season with lenghts and silhouettes.
Marc Jacobs‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection praised the diverse street culture of New York – and it deserves respect.
Not only did the cast feature an impressive number of black models, but also, Jacobs decided to invite transgender girls to walk the show. Exceptionally, this ground-breaking fashion show wasn’t a venue show-off, as we’ve all got used to. A narrow aisle of chairs for the show’s guests crossed the huge Armory. No music, but the sound of models’ walk. A sudden exit to the streets of New York, where Adwoa Aboah, Lineisy Montero, Winnie Harlow and other models integrated with the city. If you ask me, I’m still awestricken with the way Marc handled the collection, sparking one of the brightest moments of the entire New York fashion week. The clothes were all about tweed, corduroy, fur and Stephen Jones’ chic hats. Golden chain necklaces were designed in collaboration with artist Urs Fischer, nodding to the bold culture of hip-hop, while round bangles – perhaps to R&B. While other designers, like Alexander Wang or, eww, Philipp Plein, tend to repeat popular stereotypes, Marc presented his own interpretation. The show’s theme could lead to something too literal, like a line of hoodies or sweatpants – but Marc ventured into the topic subtly and with heart.
Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta, like other New York-based designers (whether that’s The Row or Vaquera), aren’t satisfied with the current state of United States. To that extend, that (according to Cathy Horyn of New York Mag) Latta and Eckhaus stopped working on their autumn-winter 2017 collection in November, discouraged by the election. But then, something sparked. “We just designed what we wanted,” Latta told Horyn. And that’s noticeable in the clothes – the designers, by confronting the reality, wanted to design freely. Will it sell? It doesn’t matter that much. But I doubt these semi-hippie floral dresses with velvet sleeves and boiled knits in earthy colours won’t find a place in a wardrobe of, let’s say,an art curator. There’s no main theme behind the collection, but rather an off-beat take on such essentials like blazers (voluminous and boldly coloured here) or a skirt (lenght adjustable). Specific, conceptual character of Eckhaus Latta clothing can’t be precisely conveyed by usual models. That’s why Zoe and Eckhaus do their best to invite people with passion for what they do to walk their shows. This season you could spot super-stylist Camille Bidault-Waddington, multi-disciplinary artist Julian Klincewicz and actress and writer India Salvor Menuez along other creative individuals and designers’ friends.