Python Preppy. Proenza Schouler SS15

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Aah, I am so in love with summer’s Proenza Schouler! It’s a total, total yum. Fringes! Python! Boxy jackets! The New Yorker spirit! With super strong colours like blue, orange and red, Jack and Lazaro overhelmed themselves. Totally. “Our version of American sportswear,” Hernandez said. Of course, that’s only the half of it. The designers may have started out with basic building blocks, but that’s not where their experiments ended up. Proenza’s parkas were made from laser-cut and color-blocked leather; polos were hand-knit, with leather panels inset across the chest. Want a T-shirt? Theirs were leather with crocheted seams. As for the leather pants, one leg was a different color than the other. The collection is simply a perfect balance- nothing to add, nothing to subtract. My favourites are the white coat, the fringe gowns (aah, they are so beautiful), the orange boxy jacket and the hand-cut sweatshirt. Really major.

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The New World System. MBMJ SS15

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Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, since last season, are the girls behind MBMJ (Marc by Marc Jacobs). And they are really doing a REVOLUTION (see AW14) at this brand! For summer, the designers brought a new strong sign- The New World System. With this, written on the cool tomboy shirts, we all really felt something new and refreshing. For example the round, sculptural plexi handbag (it’s FAB). Plastic-like polka dots tops. Latex looking blouses and leggings. And very polished Dr. Martens boots…the collection was really colourful, and it felt super cute and kawaii! What else felt lovely was the fact, that the collection is totally bold, youthful, fun… and these things are a bit missed in present fashion world. Katie and Luella, keep on doing what you are doing- it’s MEGA ULTRA great.

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Punk. Rodarte SS15

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Kate and Laura Mulleavy came back to their extraordinary roots, where punk and spirit plays a role! For Summer, the sisters did a major work. Their concept? Bring everything, that Rodarte woman is made of. Embroidery. Serenity. Punk. Piercing? Yes. The metallic half circles were glued to model’s eyebrows, to make a big statement in NYFW’s beauty. If talking of the clothes, we had every Rodarte girl- from the Harley Davidson gang, up to a sea siren and the downton NY babe. I am simply stunned with all of that! It simply takes all the words away. Simply see those Lea Colombo photographs from backstage.

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Darling. Rosie Assoulin SS15

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Rosie Assoulin’s dresses are the go-to on red carpets and street style. For summer, the designer showed off with her signature, sculptural gowns, bold colours and feminine skirts. And all of that, comnbined with huge, huge hats. As usually, Rosie presented a vibrant collection, with it-girl pieces, like the culottes and a over-sized top. But, personally, I would love to see something new coming up from this great designer. We seriously see the same dresses in every collection (well, maybe the colours change a bit)! It’s not boring or traumatic, but simply… monotonous.

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Fantasy. Thom Browne SS15

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After you see Thom Browne’s collection, you totally forget about normcore, practical clothing and slouch dressing. Ignoring the trends and tendencies, Thom always does something magical in his shows. This time, we went to a magical forest party, where everything is full of bloom and colour. Out of the shark tooth tweed, colourful feathers are “growing” out. Flowers are simply evolving from the signature TB handbags, and different beautiful things happen on the long gowns… this magnificent performance/presentation is definitely a NYFW’s highlight. Thom Browne, you always stay the same Enfant Terrible of fashion. Hope you will never change!

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