It’s the second collaboration between Marc Jacobs and Playboy – the first one was all about Kate Moss printed t-shirts, and now it’s all about… bunnies! The sweatshirts kept in beautiful, AW14 colours, were created for the magazine’s 60th anniversary, and they got that huge bunny all over it… there is also a black t-shirt with sequin Playboy logo appliqued on and few other statement pieces. In love…
Thom Browne is possibly the biggest kid of the men fashion scene. And the SS15 is just the prove! The collection was full of colours, funny embroidery… models wore mutated suits, socks embroidered with butterflies, plastic, transparent masks and vibrant prints! In the middle of the show, there was a bunch of blindfolded models wearing classical, grey Browne smokings, taking a nap. Many things are unclear about this collection, but one thing is sure- it was a real toyland!
There is a new hot brand on the horizon created by Pookie and Louisa Burch. The offbeat brand called Trademark is just the name you need to know! Their new season was presented in cool look-book starring Waleska Gorczevski, which definitely matched the clothes. The picnic printed dresses, denim barn jacket with a red shearling collar and feltlike wool of one dirndl skirt are just the perfect fit for Summer gardening or autumn park stroll. Sweaters continue to be a highlight for Trademark; this season it was the trompe l’oeil twinset in royal blue and red that really stood out. Another clever idea: a silk evening pajama set in navy and off-white for the girl who wants to look pulled together without pulling on a dress in the best way. This pretty interesting brand is the one we are interested to watch evolve…
Helmut Lang’s show began innocently enough, his trademark sleek trousers, body-conscious tops and functional overcoats redone for Spring in nubby silk-knit burlap. The looks were pure Helmut: functional, urban and modern. But then, gradually, a wave of sexual innuendo began to escalate. A tape-like strap was strategically placed on a semitransparent top; a bikini bottom was paired with a deep-plunging tank. Finally, a procession of crisscrossed, bondage-inspired dresses and tops whizzed through the audience. Lang, the designer who pioneered androgynous, uniform dressing, had designed a brilliant collection that could go from a Tribeca loft cocktail party to an alleyway midnight rendezvous west of Times Square. 
Perfection. The Olsen sisters know how. If you see a woman wearing a caftan this Spring on Manhattan, then guilt The Row’s SS14. If you see huge, 900 gram heavy cashmere sweaters- also think of The Row. This eponymous brand really influences fashion. It’s ultra-luxurious approach towards the silhouettes, clothes and fabrics is impressive. Oh, fabrics. This time for Resort they were the biggest thing at The Row! Sea Island cotton, natural linen, double-face wool, supple suede and knitted cashmere are just few examples of fabrics that were used to create this great collection. And all of that was perfectly composed into gorgeous outfits! Maxi coats, oxford shoes, delicate blouses, super wide trousers… and all linked with mink belts that reminded of Phoebe Philo’s idea for AW14 Celine. To sum up, for me the American version of Celine is The Row and Parisian version of The Row is Celine. Why? Both are best quality and… perfect (sorry for my bias)!
Design & Culture by Ed 