Fine and Raw. Eckhaus Latta AW18

February 11, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

I love Eckhaus Latta. While other designers leave New York for Paris, it’s comforting to see that Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta choose the Big Apple for their fashion shows. Or rather, Brooklyn. For seasons, Eckhaus Latta is a champion in model casting diversity (from plus-size girls to elderly ladies), but lately, it also impresses with the fabric choice. From knit skirts spun from Italian yarn to slinky rayon Jersey evening wear, there’s a cool sense of raw meets fine in every single piece. The lilac mini-dress is clingy, but not vulgar; masculine blazers make a statement, even though they aren’t overly sharp in silhouette. Mike and Zoe respect the body, in their own, arty way. But how do they get the idea what a woman (or man) wants? In their L.A. store, “there’s only a curtain that separates our studio from our store,” explained Latta. “We can hear when our customers are trying on jeans, when men are trying on women’s clothes, and vice versa.” There is no better feedback, than the one coming from a client. Take notes, other designers.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fierce! Tom Ford AW18

February 9, 2018February 9, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

A new make-up line. Vegan confessions and fur-free philosophy. A very successful menswear collection was presented just a few days ago. With his autumn-winter 2018 collection, Tom Ford doesn’t only open the official fashion month. He celebrates himself to the fullest.

Whether it’s informed in the 80s heavy references (animal spots leggings, acid colour sequinned dresses, zirconia embellished kitten heels) or Edie Sedgwick’s Warholian glamour, Ford’s runway collection is a splash of joyful ‘fashion is fashion’ optimism. I can’t get enough of these really fierce looking jackets and sleek suites he delivered last night. The show’s diverse casting is as well a big, big point for Ford – although he never seemed to have a problem with having beautiful models of different skin colour in his shows. The #MeToo movement got a space here as well in form of ‘Pussy Power’ clutches, covered in glitter.

NYFW, kicking it off the right, powerful way.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Neo Retro Lady. Saks Potts AW18

February 9, 2018February 9, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Since its runway debut in 2015, Copenhagen-based label Saks Potts has quickly garnered the attention of the street-style stars and trending editors. With a focus on creating timeless, yet bold outerwear, founders Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks mix colours and textures when designing their statement coats. Their autumn-winter 2018 presentation in New York felt retro edgy, with the new addition of eveningwear, pussy bow dresses and gorgeously looking umbrellas (!). All those pretty pastel combinations are well contrasted with polka-dots and strong shades of green and fuchsia. What I loved about this collection was the slightly cinematic sense of America’s 60s style. I can easily imagine the a woman wearing one of these belted coats down the Bowery back in the past. But as well now, in 2018.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Femininities. Rodarte AW18

February 3, 2018February 3, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

When actors, musicians and celebrities appear in fashion, the result often results in lots of buzz and fuss. But for Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the autumn-winter 2018 Rodarte look-book is about “portraits of friends”. By “friends”, they mean their long-time muse and collaborator, Kirsten Dunst (she plays the main role in the sister’s debutant film, Woodshock – worth watching) who poses in a red, floral gown, pregnant. She looks so blossoming. But it’s not only Dunst! There’s Grimes, whose ethereal, out-of-this-world music matches Rodarte vibes and that couture-ish Edwardiana frock; Chloe and Halle, the R&B duo, who twirl cherry-blossom umbrellas; Kim Gordon in a sharp leopard print-ensemble; Rowan Blanchard, actress/activist in a cute varsity jacket; Gia Coppola wearing a chic, faux-fur look; Miranda July, wearing a silk chiffon dotted dress; and others. Mulleavy sisters pursuit the idea of womanhood in their work for years, and this season they embrace that with double power. Choosing those women (who inspire them and represent different femininities) to model their clothes is the best possible choice the designers could make. I’m really, really in love.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Handcraft Glamour. Proenza Schouler AW18

January 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Skipping New York fashion week for the Paris couture season works for the Proenza Schouler boys. That’s perceivable – their second collection in the French capital is a bomb. Reflecting on who their woman is, and what are the PS codes, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough combined globe-trotter craftsmanship with contemporary glamour for the label’s autumn-winter 2018. “We took it back to California, to handcraft, women’s lib,” Lazaro said backstage. “But we were thinking about this voyager, picking things up as she goes along. A voyager across borders.” Whether she’s wearing a crotchet, midi-dress in bold red, a handful of bracelets or one of these shearling coats, that woman certainly travels in style. The mood of the collection was comfortably relaxed – the bags are bigger this season, the knits feel clingier, while the multi-colour tie-dye looks give a laid-back, surfer-girl attitude. Fringing and velvet were here too, as well as big, eclectic necklaces that looked like treasures brought back home from remote destinations.