Rio. Louis Vuitton Resort’17

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All eyes are on Southern America in fashion industry, lately. A few weeks ago we had Chanel nailing frivolous dresses in Cuba; yesterday, Nicolas Ghesquiere presented one of his best collection to date for Louis Vuitton, in Rio De Janeiro. For resort 2017, the house chose another vacay-fit destination with an arty edge – after Monaco and Palm Springs, Brazil was the next stop for Nicolas during his Vuitton journey. Staged in futuristic Niterói Museum of Contemporary Arts, the utopian construction was designed by Oscar Niemeyer in the 90s. The erratic structure of the museum perfectly matched the modern attitude of Ghesquiere’s newest creation.

The concrete runway, surrounded by water, was as spiral as the high-tech cuts on the dresses; sporty windcheater coats and studded, “deconstructed” dresses oozed with athletic vigour and breezy softness. But even during his far-fetched travels, Ghesquiere always stays the same guy from Paris. The collection was filled with colour and flesh-exposing details, yes, but Parisian elegance was present in these cool, black pants, corset-tops and ecru blazers. Unconsciously (or not), the designer brough some old, good ideas  back from his cult Balenciaga-era. If you look through Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga time-line, and then see his latest Vuitton outing, the defiant, yet very feminine aura is alive. I missed it for the last few seasons, and now I’m very happy it’s back in form of unconventional flats and layered looks.

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Moreover, resort 2017 at Louis Vuitton is an important beauty statement. Forget the rule of “same hair for every model”. It’s all about the personality – from Tamy Glauser’s boyish cut to Natalie Westling’s untamed, ginger curls, Nicolas and Ashley Brokaw (model casting director) prove that Louis Vuitton girl is all about beautiful diversity. I respect them for that every season, honestly.

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System Hang. Louis Vuitton AW16

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Even Nicolas Ghesquiere needs a break. Although  Louis Vuitton‘s creative director look always into the future, and wants to be as fast as his muse, Lightning, the hero of Final Fantasy XIII and face of the house’s most recent campaign, this season it’s distinctly visible that Ghesquiere is having a throwback to his best Balenciaga and Vuitton moments. Not that the collection is bad – quite the opposite, this chic, luxe Tomb Raider girl is Nicolas’ long-term concept, which both excites and sells. But it just feels like the autumn-winter collection doesn’t have this sense of new, which is always conveyed in his collections. How many sweatshirts will we see, or those satin, sporty dresses? And why are the last-season’s patent-leather boots again in the show (well, because they were best-sellers – but I doubt whether Ghesquiere’s aim is to go Valentino’s path and become an accessory-loving, commerce-wise designer)? Believe it or not, but this collection looks usual and quite easy to pull off, and even more banal, when you are Nicolas Ghesquiere. Phoebe Philo can confess she is having a chill – but I doubt Vuitton’s designer, noting the capacity of the brand, can let himself for a system hang.

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#2015 – Nicolas Ghesquiere

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Nicolas Ghesquiere is praised by many as the designer, who perfectly highlights the quintessence of a 21st century wardrobe of a woman – his absolutely wearable and hi-techn clothes are all about comfort and a kind of refreshing, neo-eclecticism. His year at Louis Vuitton is also a year full of diversity – definitely, Nicolas and his team represent the French maison as a multi-cultural and stereotype-breaking brand through beautiful pink and afro haired models walking their world-wide runways (we have even came across Palm Springs this year for the Resort 2016 collection)! Thanks to Nicolas Ghesquiere, Louis Vuitton has become a label that is more than clothes and a vast range of accessories – now, Louis Vuitton is an open-minded, lifestyle project.

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AW15 – Autumn-winter 2014 was about 70’s. Spring-summer 2015 was looking forward to vintage florals and denim. The autumn-winter 2015 collection was “looking into the future”, as Nicolas Ghesquiere stated backstage. And, it really did. Presented at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, the designer’s muse, Freja Beha, walked down the boldly coloured runway in a fluffy, white shearling coat. Then, the model favourites like Lineisy Montero and Fernanda Ly wore abstract peplum tops, satin suites with logo appliqued t-shirts and lace dresses. Kept in a rich colour palette, Ghesquiere’s conceptual take on the winter wardrobe is both über-feminine and simultaneously casual, noting the luxe sweat-pants and lovely tank-tops.

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Resort’16 – Nicolas Ghesquiere amazed me during his recent Resort collection. Louis Vuitton‘s is the first collection, in which he shows he is really the boss of the brand. The collection, presented in Palm Springs, California, was a sunny blast of fresh, slightly eccentric fashion. Nicolas showcased the silhouettes, that have never been present in his previous shows for the house and Balenciaga. Long, woman-warrior dresses with embellished gems; high-waisted trousers with harness belts; beautifully laser-cut leather jackets, which reminded me of the Victoriana era, brought the mood of Nicolas’ favourite musician, Grimes. But also, some sexy shorts and crop-tops appeared, giving us the vibe of the real all-American summer.  What should I say more? California suits Nicolas Ghesquiere as much as Paris.

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SS16 – This season, Nicolas Ghesquiere really did show his refreshing stance at Vuitton – cyber luxury is the best term that reflects the mix of exclusive logo prints and pink-haired model wearing highly hype (whatever this means nowadays) clothes. Nicolas definitely had Japan on his mind this time – the Harajuku girls with manga-inpired robot tiaras and platform sandals make this collection sharp, but with a slight bit of kawaii flavour coming straightly from Tokyo. However, the collection had something more ethnical, too – note the lovely hand-stitched embroideries on suede biker jackets below. Or the feather details on mesh tank-tops and badass gloves. This how you do ethno, Valentino – keep it discreet, but appropriate. But what really hit me this time, is the amazing talent of fusing fashion history that the designer is known for – the Victorian blouses with leather vests and medieval inspired gowns (Resort 2016 continuation) have never, ever looked so modern as in Nicolas’ vision. These shirts, dresses, motorcycle leggings and, yes, jumpsuits (!) are highly in need. Also, I am drooling over these leather, pleated totes – the beauty of these accessories makes them conceptual objects, rather than just “bags”.

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A Re-See

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It’s not Alessandro Michele, the designer behind Gucci, who made everybody fall in love with vintage fashion and nostalgia. And definitely, he wasn’t the first. Re-See is the result of long term collaboration between Sofia Bernardin and Sabrina Marshall, two fashion veterans who previously worked at prestigious Vogue and super chic Self Service magazine. One day, Sabrina and Sofia decided to bring the fashion-obsessed people their own, virtual boutique, offering a beautifully curated selection of authentic, pre-owned pieces in the perfect condition. The Paris-based on-line store has some real treasures, which appear to be fashion history’s most covetted pieces – like the super rare Goa bag by Hermes and a impressive collection of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s favourite pieces from his tenure at Balenciaga. Lately, the founders of Re-See dropped a wide range of Yves Saint Laurent from the 60’s and 70’s (the famous, hand-embroidered “Ballet Des Russe” gowns are here, too – Vyshyvanka by Vita Kin, take notes). However, what really makes Re-See so appealing is their way of presenting these one-of-a-kind, pristine condition clothes. Their signature, fashion editorial style and styling tips make buying luxury, yet vintage pieces a new experience.

More at resee.com – and here is a selection of my favourite pieces from their on-line boutique!

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CHANEL / PRE-FALL 2009 MOSCOW COLLECTION JACKET

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SAINT LAURENT / 1979 RUFFLED ENSEMBLE

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FENDI / FUR CUFF JACKET

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CÉLINE / 60’S HORSE-SHOE BELT

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MIU MIU / S/S 2010 TRI-COLOUR CAPRETTO BOOTIES

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SAINT LAURENT / 70’S MILITARY JACKET

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LOUIS VUITTON / RARE 1996 “CENTENAIRE” SHOULDER BAG

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MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA / WHITE SILK SCARF

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MISSONI / 90S SEQUIN TUNIC ENSEMBLE

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SAINT LAURENT / 70’S BROWN HOODED CAPE

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MIU MIU / S/S 2011 ELECTRIC SHIFT DRESS

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CHANEL / RED CAMELLIA BROOCHES

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PIERRE CARDIN / RARE VINTAGE VELVET CORSET ENSEMBLE

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PRADA / F/W 2011 RUNWAY SUEDE PYTHON BOOTS

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GUCCI / TOM FORD 2003 SHIRT

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HERMÈS / RARE VINTAGE ‘GOA’ BAG

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SAINT LAURENT / 1976 RUSSIAN COLLECTION DRESS

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LOUIS VUITTON / S/S 2010 PEG HEEL CLOGS

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SAINT LAURENT / 1960’S EMBROIDERED CANVAS ENSEMBLE

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BALENCIAGA / F/W 2012 METALLIC TONED TROUSERS

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JOHN GALLIANO SLIP DRESS

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SAINT LAURENT / S/S 2007 FLOWER-GARLANDED GOWN

Throwback Sunday – Balenciaga SS98′

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#ThrowbackSunday – spring / summer 1998

The debut collection of Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga. When the yet unknown designer came to Cristobal Balenciaga’s dusty and forgotten brand, it sold funeral clothing to Japanese licences. So, after the failure of the former creative director, Josephus Thimister, Nicolas had a field to show-off his talent. For the first collection in 1998, Ghesquiere decided to keep it mostly black, concentrating on the variety of silhouettes and sharp tailoring. Even though the collection felt very modest at the first sight, it was just a teaser of Nicolas’ prosperous and bold 15 years at Balenciaga.

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Let this mourning parade of black-only looks be a quiet nod to Friday’s horryfying events that took place in Paris.