Cyber Luxury. Louis Vuitton SS16

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Spring-summer 2016 season at Louis Vuitton is his best to date. Nicolas Ghesquiere really did show his refreshing stance at the maison – cyber luxury is the best term that reflects the mix of exclusive logo prints and pink-haired model wearing highly hype (whatever this means nowadays) clothes. Nicolas definitely had Japan on his mind this time – the Harajuku girls with manga-inpired robot tiaras and platform sandals make this collection sharp, but with a slight bit of kawaii flavour coming straightly from Tokyo. However, the collection had something more ethnical, too – note the lovely hand-stitched embroideries on suede biker jackets below. Or the feather details on mesh tank-tops and badass gloves. This how you do ethno, Valentino – keep it discreet, but appropriate. But what really hit me this time, is the amazing talent of fusing fashion history that the designer is known for – the Victorian blouses with leather vests and medieval inspired gowns have never, ever looked so modern as in Nicolas’ vision. These shirts, dresses, motorcycle leggings and, yes, jumpsuits (!) are highly in need. Also, I am drooling over these leather, pleated totes – the beauty of these accessories makes them conceptual objects, rather than just “bags”.

Ghesquiere, and his model casting director, Ashley Brokaw, have the most diverse set of girls during Paris Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton is a world-wide  known brand, and it should be praised for having afro, bald, mullet and even pink-haired models (so Grimes, Nicolas’ muse and favourite musician of the moment!). Thanks to Nicolas Ghesquiere, Louis Vuitton became a label, that is more than clothes and a vast range of accessories – now, Louis Vuitton is an open-minded, lifestyle project. Bravo!

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The NG Day

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10th of May – this means, it’s Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s birthday! Let’s celebrate it, by looking back at his biggest moments at Balenciaga, and now at Louis Vuitton – the time-line proves that this guy is a real fashion visionaire. Wishing him all the best!

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AW01 – the “all black” collection. Nicolas showed his amazing tailoring skills through elegant jackets, coats and blazers.

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AW02 – One of my favourite collections ever. He showed soft, oversized sweaters and jackets, and a small group of colorful knee-length collage dresses apparently influenced by Cubist paintings.

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AW04 – This shearling jacket from 2004 is my dream.

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SS06 – The jacket from this collection photographed by Nick Knight.

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Nicolas and his friend, Charlotte Gasinsbourg, in AW10.

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SS11 – Campaign photographed by Inez & Vinoodh.

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AW12 – Cosmic sweatshirts.

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AW14 – Arrival at Louis Vuitton.

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Louis Vuitton SS15 photographed by Juergen Teller.

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Jeanne Damas in SS15‘s corduroy trousers and bra.

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AW15 – Fernanda Ly on the runway.

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Resort 2016 – An extravagant show in Palm Springs, California.

TBC.

Palm Spring. Louis Vuitton Resort’16

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Nicolas Ghesquiere truly amazed me this time. Louis Vuitton‘s Resort 2016 is the first collection, in which he shows he is really the boss. The collection, presented in Palm Springs, California, was a sunny blast of fresh, slightly eccentric fashion. Nicolas presented the silhouettes, that have never been present in his previous shows for the house and Balenciaga. Long, woman-warrior dresses with embellished gems;  high-waisted trousers with harness belts were everywhere; beautifully laser-cut leather jackets which reminded me of Victoriana era brought on the mood of Grimes and Lana Del Rey. But also, some sexy shorts and crop-tops appeared, giving us the vibe of the real all-American summer. But what spiced up the atmosphere of the show was the model casting. Ghesquiere’s favourite bae’s were here – the red-haired Natalie Westling, Argentinian it-girl Mica Arganaraz and the designer’s muse, Fernanda Ly with her mesmerising pink hair.

What may I say more? That California truly suits Nicolas Ghesquiere. And that he is a perfect match for this always open-minded and innovative house.

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Conceptuel. Louis Vuitton AW15

AW14 was about 70’s and the refreshed wardrobe. SS15 was looking at vintage florals and denim. AW15 is looking at the future, as Nicolas Ghesquiere stated after the Louis Vuitton show. And, it really did. Presented at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, Feja Beha walked down the runway in a fluffy, white shearling coat. Then, a very diverse model casting wore abstract peplum tops, satin suites with logo appliqued t-shirts and sexy lace “underwear” dresses.

Kept in ich colour palette, Ghesquiere’s conceptual take on winter wardrobe is über-interesting. The trousers seem to match everyhing just like the boldly coloured knits. I kind of love it.