What’s Hot (8.7.17)

Image | July 8, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Commedia Dell’Arte. Nina Ricci Resort 2018

June 21, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Guillaume Henry is getting better and better with every season at Nina Ricci. The labels’ autumn-winter 2017 collection presented a few months ago was, for me, one of the season’s biggest highlights. Today, we’re seeing the resort 2018 look-book, which is equally exciting. The colours! The silhouettes! The creative director’s main reference was commedia dell’arte – it’s a one-of-a-kind, Nina Ricci take on Harlequin, Pierrot and Columbine. “It’s in my blood to be bourgeois; it’s just a matter of being fun about it,” Henry explained. Indeed – canary-yellow fur coat and bumpy mini-dress, exaggerated volume of shoulders, fluffy pompoms on flats and huge collars bring aristocratic, even theatrical drama. What’s even more impressive about this collection is the way how Guillaume handled the theme. Those Harlequin-inspired shirts and coats don’t look ridiculous, but unbelievably refined. Also, greet the pistachio-green Tambour, a bag resembling a miniature drum. Genius.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Bourdin and Americana. Nina Ricci AW17

March 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In Milan, we’ve got Jil Sander, where Rodolfo Paglialunga was trying, trying and finally successed in capturing the spirit of a label (unfortunately slightly too late, as he is said to be leaving the house) originally created by a woman with vision. Meanwhile in Paris, a similar situation was going on with Nina Ricci, where Guillaume Henry took his time to understand the brand’s rhythm and the founder’s codes. But autumn-winter 2017 is the clear evidence that he’s the right person behind Ricci, with fresh concepts and remarkable respect for the maison‘s aesthetic. His latest collection is brilliant, in every aspect. The make-up and pastel colour palette instantly reminded you of Guy Bourdin’s iconic Polaroids and visionary visuals. The clothes were femininely chic, but at the same time Wild West with all those over-sized belt buckles and flesh-exposing silhouettes. If you aren’t fully happy about the subtle nod to rodeo, Henry once again showed that he really can cut a great coat. And there’s a wide range to choose from.