Warm November Dibs

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I always find November as a very complicated period for dressing. At this point, let’s forget about the pleasure of September clothes, which feel so fresh, when you take them out of  your wardrobe after summer season of shorts and t-shirts. Still, November isn’t December: Christmas and festive mood isn’t present yet. November is November. Occasional sun deceives you, just like the yellow leaves – in fact, it’s so, so COLD.

Some designers, who live in a real world, understand those down-to-earth human needs, which touch all of us in the late autumn. I’m honest: I’m really not into resort collections, which start to hit the stores. Also, the idea that I will need to  survive entire autumn in a biker jacket, as most of pre-fall and winter collections say, doesn’t appeal to me even a bit. That’s why I treasure brands like Holland & Holland.  Re-invented by two, fantastic women, Stella Tennant and Isabella Cawdor, the historic British brand puts emphasis on classical tweed, knitted goods, shirts, outerwear, tailoring and accessories. Tennant and Cawdor certainly know what does it mean to feel the November chill – both of them live in Scottish highlands, and are surrounded by moors since childhood. Looking at the look-book of their autumn-winter 2016 collection, you will believe them – a pair of woollen pants and a fur-trimmed parka won’t let you catch a cold. Just like at The Row, where Olsen sisters wait for you with ankle-lenght astrakhan coats and double-face cashmere sweaters.

Phoebe Philo, the woman for women at Céline, knows that layering is the key, and there is no autumn without over-sized pants, soft turtlenecks and well-tailored coats. That’s obvious, looking at her newer, and older collections (which seem to be endlessly relevant, by the way). No one does wool jackets like Hillier Bartley – modelled on classic British riding styles, a Hound’s-tooth ensemble instantly stole my heart. British and American designers are the ones who you can rely on in case of autumn essentials. Count on Italians, too – Miuccia Prada’s genius AW16 at her main line has a say in terms of coats and knits.

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Parisian designers have a different attitude towards November-dressing, and to understand that, take a glance at Lemaire‘s autumn outing of pure French chic. Subtle silhouettes, like fine, black coats or cable-knits with Elizabethan sleeves define the word ‘cozy’ like no other. You can grab those clothes, and go out, without a second thought.

One of my favourite collections ever, which I tend to look back at quite frequently during November evenings, is Haider Ackermann‘s 2014 collection. Kept in various shades of grey and brown, Ackermann took a new spin on his eveningwear, delivering floor-sweeping coats and ultra-feminine  wide trousers in wool. Pencil skirts and thick blazers – maybe November isn’t that bad, after all? From layers and layers of cashmere to dapper power-dressing, November is the season when you can truly embrace a kind of toned, stately elegance.

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Piece of Fall

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It’s November, and what’s better than an autumn-wardrobe update? Here is my editorial for Concept 21 Store, which has just received a new delivery from N21. Mohair sweaters with feather appliqué, comfortable denim trousers and uber-cool hoodies designed by Italian designer, Alessandro Dell’AcQua, are all here, looking at their best. All photographs were taken inside and in the vicinity my favourite cheesecake & coffee place, Piece of Cake. Enjoy.

Piece of Cake / ul. Zydowska 29 / Poznan

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The Most Scary Shows Ever!

1055268 John Galliano AW07 was inspired with Pigalle girls from Paris, wearing all these ornamental boudoir dresses and strong colour of red on them. From veiled streetwalkers to girls that had been dancing all night, models appeared with dripping make-up and carrying eerie broken dolls. The runway was like a fantastic dark circus- dusty and dark!1055267During the Alexander McQueen show in AW06, models wore reindeer horns on heads, nomadic inspired dresses, gothic black gowns and amazing witch coats. That was the real fantasy of McQueen’s world we love. And definitely this collection would make at a haunted castle Halloween party…1054885These knitted veils from Rick Owens AW12 collection channeled brutalism. Drawing on the classic beauty of Marlene Dietrich, a 1920’s bisexual icon who openly defied sexual norms, the model’s look was honeydew skin, coral lips and combed brows fenced by masks of gunmetal grey. Flowing volumes provided protective layers for his dominatrices whilst the silhouettes created a confusion of sinister and sexy. Relentless flames singed at the top of the runway as the models stalked the east side of Paris.1055264Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture AW11 was a mix of skeletal silhouettes and organ-like textures. Coiled intestines, brain tissue and snake dresses aided the vision of couture cyborgs, confirming the ongoing influence of anatomical, architectural and scientific structures in her space-borne collections. Still sits in some’s nightmares.1055269Gareth Pugh AW13 was a dull collection of recycled gowns with feathers, wood, trash bags… The headpieces made as shake, and the amazing deepness of darkness was a bit depressing. That’s what is called a scary Halloween couture. Costing a fortune, by the way…1050817

Solemn Pieces

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Thom Browne’s SS14 collections not only made us all scream, but it too took to another level of Tim Burtons fashion story… The abysmally white collection full of bloody lips, ghosts and fashion demons certainly can be counted into one of the scariest moment of fashion season… Thom’s dull collection is not just surrealistic, but very killing with it’s beauty!

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