Darling. Rosie Assoulin SS15

September 10, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rosie Assoulin’s dresses are the go-to on red carpets and street style. For summer, the designer showed off with her signature, sculptural gowns, bold colours and feminine skirts. And all of that, comnbined with huge, huge hats. As usually, Rosie presented a vibrant collection, with it-girl pieces, like the culottes and a over-sized top. But, personally, I would love to see something new coming up from this great designer. We seriously see the same dresses in every collection (well, maybe the colours change a bit)! It’s not boring or traumatic, but simply… monotonous.

Sanctuary. The Row SS15

September 10, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row by the Olsen sisters is usually my favourite. But this time, it’s even more than favourite. It’s holy. Presented in a silent, brick loft with wooden floors in SoHO, the models started to emerge in a slow, calm way. Pouring through skylights, the morning sun glinted off the gold basket weave of a loosely tied coat, and shimmered on an organza top that looked as if it might’ve been dipped in tea or sepia-dyed. These were angels? Close. The clothes made from raw silk, crisp cotton, woven tabard finished with fringe… not many New York labels concentrate so much on detailing.

The caftans, peplums, over-sized coats, the robe dresses… it all felt serene, noting the whole collection was kept in gold, creme. brown, black and white colour. Although the fabrics and clothes may sound splendorous, they weren’t even a bit seductive. They were elusive, and simply, minimally, beautiful. Plus, I would love to see these pieces worn on a summer escape- they are loose (but not slouchy), chic (but not elegant). And these wonderful sandals/flats make us drool… this simply is the strongest collection to date.

Fantasy. Thom Browne SS15

September 10, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

After you see Thom Browne’s collection, you totally forget about normcore, practical clothing and slouch dressing. Ignoring the trends and tendencies, Thom always does something magical in his shows. This time, we went to a magical forest party, where everything is full of bloom and colour. Out of the shark tooth tweed, colourful feathers are “growing” out. Flowers are simply evolving from the signature TB handbags, and different beautiful things happen on the long gowns… this magnificent performance/presentation is definitely a NYFW’s highlight. Thom Browne, you always stay the same Enfant Terrible of fashion. Hope you will never change!

Suede. Derek Lam SS15

September 9, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Suede. Suede. Suede. Derek Lam, you are a real 70’s man! This collection is a masterpiece. Beautiful shades of violet, brown and tourquoise were presented in leather jackets, suede skirts and tops. With a slightly hippie & masculine vibe, the collection lands high on the best NYFW presentations up to date. Still, the nostalgia factor ticked up a few notches this season—there’s something about patchwork suede with contrast topstitching that just takes you back. But if Lam’s references felt quite literal this time around, that didn’t make the clothes any less compelling. “It’s a continuation of my preoccupation with being an American designer,” Lam said backstage. “I love the American codes: the jean jacket, the shirtwaist.” This is what he said of the bell trousers and buttoned jackets. Lovely! And these photos of Ube via Cereal Magazine perfectly match the clothes…

Slightly Hippie Woman. Victoria Beckham SS15

September 8, 2014September 8, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

It was slightly hippie, but not to hippie at the same time. Victoria Beckham, the ex-queen of high-heels, brings us the world of beautiful flats, showing her debutant shoes (created by the brand Victoria Beckham, and not Manolo Blahnik). For summer, Victoria started with linen, producing delicate dresses, jumpsuits and coats. Then we had a series of burgundy and white, ending up with pink abstract flowers. And that’s the best collection to date, Victoria! It’s not stiff and cold. The power of matternity shows, that every woman creates something beautiful. Big, big bravo, Victoria Beckham. I am moved. And the art is by Johanna Tagada, the artist based in Berlin.