Rosie Assoulin’s dresses are the go-to on red carpets and street style. For summer, the designer showed off with her signature, sculptural gowns, bold colours and feminine skirts. And all of that, comnbined with huge, huge hats. As usually, Rosie presented a vibrant collection, with it-girl pieces, like the culottes and a over-sized top. But, personally, I would love to see something new coming up from this great designer. We seriously see the same dresses in every collection (well, maybe the colours change a bit)! It’s not boring or traumatic, but simply… monotonous.
NYC
Sanctuary. The Row SS15
The Row by the Olsen sisters is usually my favourite. But this time, it’s even more than favourite. It’s holy. Presented in a silent, brick loft with wooden floors in SoHO, the models started to emerge in a slow, calm way. Pouring through skylights, the morning sun glinted off the gold basket weave of a loosely tied coat, and shimmered on an organza top that looked as if it might’ve been dipped in tea or sepia-dyed. These were angels? Close. The clothes made from raw silk, crisp cotton, woven tabard finished with fringe… not many New York labels concentrate so much on detailing.
The caftans, peplums, over-sized coats, the robe dresses… it all felt serene, noting the whole collection was kept in gold, creme. brown, black and white colour. Although the fabrics and clothes may sound splendorous, they weren’t even a bit seductive. They were elusive, and simply, minimally, beautiful. Plus, I would love to see these pieces worn on a summer escape- they are loose (but not slouchy), chic (but not elegant). And these wonderful sandals/flats make us drool… this simply is the strongest collection to date.
Fantasy. Thom Browne SS15
After you see Thom Browne’s collection, you totally forget about normcore, practical clothing and slouch dressing. Ignoring the trends and tendencies, Thom always does something magical in his shows. This time, we went to a magical forest party, where everything is full of bloom and colour. Out of the shark tooth tweed, colourful feathers are “growing” out. Flowers are simply evolving from the signature TB handbags, and different beautiful things happen on the long gowns… this magnificent performance/presentation is definitely a NYFW’s highlight. Thom Browne, you always stay the same Enfant Terrible of fashion. Hope you will never change!
Suede. Derek Lam SS15
Suede. Suede. Suede. Derek Lam, you are a real 70’s man! This collection is a masterpiece. Beautiful shades of violet, brown and tourquoise were presented in leather jackets, suede skirts and tops. With a slightly hippie & masculine vibe, the collection lands high on the best NYFW presentations up to date. Still, the nostalgia factor ticked up a few notches this season—there’s something about patchwork suede with contrast topstitching that just takes you back. But if Lam’s references felt quite literal this time around, that didn’t make the clothes any less compelling. “It’s a continuation of my preoccupation with being an American designer,” Lam said backstage. “I love the American codes: the jean jacket, the shirtwaist.” This is what he said of the bell trousers and buttoned jackets. Lovely! And these photos of Ube via Cereal Magazine perfectly match the clothes…
Japan to Peru. Tibi SS15

The Tibi show always make me excited. The brand perfectly fuses the Dowtown cool girl from New York and different ethnic groups of the world. For summer, Amy Smilovic took us to Japan and Peru, thanks to which we had beautiful embroideries and quilting and also minimal cuts and practical forms. Culottes are again a hit (like, every label has them this season, but Tibi culottes are always the most epic) and hats à la Pharrell by Reinhard Plank have a more affordable approach! Seriously, there are many amazing things about this collection… even the fact that Anya Ziourova styled the show makes me obsessed! Tibi, I love you!








































