70’s Bohemia. Creatures of The Wind AW15

February 13, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“One of our main influences was looking at the 20s through a 70s lens,” said one of the designers at Creatures of The Wind, Shane Gabier. The palette was rich with opulent Art Deco hues – especially the gold olive, which Gabier said “has reappeared in different decades, different places and in different subcultures.” The all-American collection (the stoles had free-life stars on them) had lots of metaphors having something to do with the country’s history – pilgrims, farmers, New York flea markets and even, the Steve Jobs turtlenecks. And all of that, mixed in a cool bohemia like mash-up. I love the use of fur and prints – the frivole skirt with monochrome checks is amazing, isn’t it? Just like the shoes, which really get hot, keeping in the mind that the brand starts its strong expansion.

Smile, America!

Girl in Uniform. Marc Jacobs SS15

September 12, 2014September 12, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

As usually, making his show last during New York fashion week, Marc Jacobs does the biggest twist, showing whose the king of New York. Last season, Jacobs put clouds all around the huge hall. And now, for summer, we’ve got a… pink house. Yes! Was it a psychedelic vision of daily routine? Or something random? Or maybe something connected to peace? That would tell us what the big military trend do at the show! Khaki bomb dresses, sweatpants, huge pockets, backpacks (which are so Prada inspired!) and the universal black wigs of the models, which made the viewer concentrate on clothing. But all that cold atmosphere was made slightly sweet, with those little flowers painted on the over-sized tops. As usually, Marc Jacobs shows us something unusual (even the fact that he came back to the military trend means SOMETHING) and philosophical. And that was pretty it, if talking of NYFW, folks!

Python Preppy. Proenza Schouler SS15

September 12, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Aah, I am so in love with summer’s Proenza Schouler! It’s a total, total yum. Fringes! Python! Boxy jackets! The New Yorker spirit! With super strong colours like blue, orange and red, Jack and Lazaro overhelmed themselves. Totally. “Our version of American sportswear,” Hernandez said. Of course, that’s only the half of it. The designers may have started out with basic building blocks, but that’s not where their experiments ended up. Proenza’s parkas were made from laser-cut and color-blocked leather; polos were hand-knit, with leather panels inset across the chest. Want a T-shirt? Theirs were leather with crocheted seams. As for the leather pants, one leg was a different color than the other. The collection is simply a perfect balance- nothing to add, nothing to subtract. My favourites are the white coat, the fringe gowns (aah, they are so beautiful), the orange boxy jacket and the hand-cut sweatshirt. Really major.

The New World System. MBMJ SS15

September 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, since last season, are the girls behind MBMJ (Marc by Marc Jacobs). And they are really doing a REVOLUTION (see AW14) at this brand! For summer, the designers brought a new strong sign- The New World System. With this, written on the cool tomboy shirts, we all really felt something new and refreshing. For example the round, sculptural plexi handbag (it’s FAB). Plastic-like polka dots tops. Latex looking blouses and leggings. And very polished Dr. Martens boots…the collection was really colourful, and it felt super cute and kawaii! What else felt lovely was the fact, that the collection is totally bold, youthful, fun… and these things are a bit missed in present fashion world. Katie and Luella, keep on doing what you are doing- it’s MEGA ULTRA great.

Punk. Rodarte SS15

September 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kate and Laura Mulleavy came back to their extraordinary roots, where punk and spirit plays a role! For Summer, the sisters did a major work. Their concept? Bring everything, that Rodarte woman is made of. Embroidery. Serenity. Punk. Piercing? Yes. The metallic half circles were glued to model’s eyebrows, to make a big statement in NYFW’s beauty. If talking of the clothes, we had every Rodarte girl- from the Harley Davidson gang, up to a sea siren and the downton NY babe. I am simply stunned with all of that! It simply takes all the words away. Simply see those Lea Colombo photographs from backstage.