The SS14 at Reed was… hmm, like every Reed Krakoff collection for Summer. And that means- boring. It felt too classical with all these boudoir dresses in white colours and the mix of beige and lime… well it look cool in Zara, but not on the runway in at the end of the New york Fashion Week! Common, Reed, fashion has to be a bit more fun… I respect your aestethics, but why don’t you do something a bit more shocking than three looks with this neon coour from last season? Should that be the New York classical chic? Oh, no. Then I prefer a Michael Kors bomb than this collection that would be better for Resort….
NYFW
Simple. Proenza Schouler SS14
For me, the Guggenheim Museum in New York is a place for inspiration hunting. Not only art there makes your imagination work, but also the architecture of this building- the spiral, white interior of Guggenheim is one of the most beautiful thing in NYC. And, I don’t know why, but it feels to me that the Proenza Schouler designer duo had their beautiful collection influenced with this magnificient place! The show venue of the collection of PS SS14 collection was happening in a typical NY loft. It started with delicate leather coats, then changed into some very Proenza prints and ended up with metallic skirts and tops. I should say I really like the mature version of Proenza Schouler- the 10 year old label changes dramatically from a toxic-coloured-and-neon-printed-amazon-frog-girl into a beautiful, New York lady that adors to walk every morning to Central Park and fancies a dance in one of the New York’s hottest lobster bars… In other words, the clothes, shoes (that are pretty funny) and bags from that Summer collection at Proenza Schouler are simply beautiful! This is the New New York Look!
LA Strip Girl Gang. Rodarte SS14
The Rodarte show not only brought LA coolness to New York Fashion Week, but also showed that Laura and Kate Mulleavy are not only good in designing red carpet gowns! Whole collection was inspired with 80’s in Los Angeles, were the strip clubs and nightlife was dominant with lots pf neon lights, pool parties and hangovers. The SS14 by Rodarte is very sexy- skimpy skirts; lots of bikinis with ruffles; tiger prints. But also the clothes had something more to say than their sexiness- these cool trousers and biker jackets are for strong women that are not scared of showing off their splendours and… more things. Summarising, the collection is cool and really breaking the limits of Rodarte sisters that always make NYFW… Of course COOLER.
Bloody Mary. Thom Browne SS14
When Thom Browne presents his collection in New York for women, there is alway a feeling that real fashion, full of imagination and fun, still exists. And so was this season, that took as to a fantasy world full of ghosts and Bloody Mary! The collection just like the last one was a masterpiece. Beautiful models walked the runway in only white costumes, with lots of details, fabric variety and different style, in fantastic make-ups (the boody red lipstick looked spooky on the totally white faces of the model!) and crazy hairstyles. In other words, Thom surely got inspired with tim Burton films and read lots of fairy-tales… for giving New York a REAL fashion shock. With this, who needs Haute Couture?
Mash Up. Derek Lam SS14
The SS14 collection of Mr. Derek Lam in the Big Apple was many things at time- gingham prints that reminded picnic towels; Parisian chic in the middle of New York; African embroidery and forms in a much more minimalistic way. I don’t know what was the connection of all these styles, but I pretty much liked this collection, and mostly the creme coloured dress with a attached scarf and shoulders cuts… And I found many similarities to Celine’s earlier collection, like the buckle belts, shouldered jackets and the modern dresses. Oh, and the Gingham prints on turbans and dresses are also nothing new (yes, Prada?) but it looked still cool. Happy to see Derek back in full action (last seasons were really boooring…)!
Design & Culture by Ed 