Paco Rabanne
Modern Softness. Paco Rabanne SS16
Julien Dossena looked at the heritage of Paco Rabanne from a totally different side this season. It rather feels more him, than Rabanne. The collection is designed for a modern girl – however, it’s much more feminine than the built-up looks we’ve seen last season. The fresh, summer outing was all about the high-tech sportiness with a sense of casual sexiness. Baby doll dresses walked alongside motocross-influenced leathers; the graphical prints on tank-tops had the Native American feeling about them. Definitely, Julien introduced a more slouchy festival attitude to the brand, rather than continuing Rabanne’s futuristic strictness and rawness. The textiles are softer in comparison to the signature Paco chain-dresses and the woman reflecting the brand changed.
Astronauts. Paco Rabanne AW15
In the 20th century, Paco Rabanne wanted to create a wardrobe for modern women; in 21st century, we’ve got Julien Dossena who wants to make Paco Rabanne the future go-to label. The result for AW15 is pleasing – iconic chain dresses, astronaut-like mesh jackets (like the one worn by Aya Jones), voluminous varsity jackets and very wearable ankle boots. The zips were the key here, too – they were mostly everywhere, giving us some leg or exposing shoulders. The sheer fabrics there and there and brought sex-appeal which was slightly missed by Julien in previous seasons. In other words – Dossena feels like in the right shoes at Paco’s house.
By me for nuicons.com
Julien Dossena / Advent 2014
December 11: Julien Dossena is the guy who made the ultra-modern brand, Paco Rabanne, modern again for our times. AW14, he did the signature Paco Rabanne chain tops , and for SS15 he thought of sporty, airy and very fit dresses. The 20th century’s sci-fi brand becomes into 21st centuries cool-girl essentials.
NASA in Paris. Paco Rabanne SS15
Julien Dossena is just the perfect match for Paco Rabanne. He really makes the brand breath with new life and energy! Very athletic, cosmic, modern- these are the words that do describe the SS15. Having a strong view on details (like bracelets or sci-fi embroideries), Julien and Marie Amelie Sauve did a great job with styling and model casting. Mica looked gorgeous in that knit; Amanda stole the show in that burgundy jacket; Natalie rocked the “shirt” dress. Think Olympic swimming pool, not Saint-Tropez, with color-blocking, contrast piping, daring cutouts, and skirts draped diagonally across the hips, exposing the pelvic bone on one side. They’ll require a phenomenal body to pull off, just as Rabanne’s did back in the day: 21st-century Jane Birkins and Françoise Hardys only. The mustang boots just gave the overall look a sharp, edgy vibe.
