Paint The World. Christopher Kane SS21

Similar to Victoria Beckham this season, Christopher Kane took the “less is more” path: less clothes and less looks result in a well-edited, meaningful line-up of truly intriguing garments. In Kane’s case, however, it’s been reverting to painting with multicolored glitter as he did as a kid that’s got him back to who he is. His flagship in Mount Street was turned into an exhibition space on the day of the collection’s presentation, filled with easels and canvases and imagined portraits of girls that he’d made obsessively during lockdown. Grouped around on mannequins were vibrant prints that made the jump from pictures to coats, dresses, shirts and t-shirts. Everything is painted – an idea that parallels with Katharina Grosse’s artistic practice, where she’s painting the world around her. “I haven’t painted for 14 years,” he said. “You know, in (the pace of) business, it’s chronic. At the beginning of lockdown, it took me a good month to say, I can’t sit here watching TV all day. I needed to do something. So I went out in the garden and just started painting, not caring whether what I was doing was crap or not. And then I started enjoying myself.” He made paintings of “brats – the girls I love, who’ve always inspired me,” gouaches of his nieces Bonnie and Tippi, and a more abstract impression in sage green sparkles of his sister Tammy. The idiosyncratic technique goes straight back to when he started making drawings in glitter pen of his mum at home in Newarthill, outside Glasgow, at the age of 14. Christine Kane encouraged both Christopher and Tammy, her youngest children, to be as creative as they liked at home. Instead of getting mad at them when their hours of painting and gluing on the sitting-room floor ended up ruining her best carpet, she just removed the carpet and let them get on with it. Going back to that feeling of making for making’s sake, without the pressure of thinking he was designing for any prescriptive outcome, was freeing. He began forming abstract shapes: “circles, voids, mouths” from whirling layers of acrylic paint and glitter. “Then I came up with a process of combing the paint. And then adding stripes. They became like my mindscapes.” In the end, having thought at first they didn’t want to make anything at all, Kane and his sister began transferring some of the work onto duchesse satin, Tyvek, and cotton, and a small summer collection began to take shape. Out of the big pause came something humming with energy, revealing a side to Christopher Kane’s creativity he might never have had time to rediscover and which he’d probably never have shared. As one of the restarts of the season, it felt intensely personal – something speculative, self-reliant, and not meant for endless reproduction. And most of all: “from now on,” said his sister, “we’re streamlining, editing before we decide to put something out into the world.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Most Artsy Accesssories for SS14

Slide1-kopia 2The SS14 Fashion Month recently ended, so now the thing that feels right is to filter everything from every show- from skirts to bags, from sunglasses to socks. While you can see like most of accessesories from the shows in the web, I thought of a selection of my favourite trend of the season. While the Frieze is happening, the most Artsy list of shoes and backs feel totally in the right place. So just feed your eyes on these masterpieces! And the art I used as backround is Jeff Koons. Of course.

1. Chanel backpack, 2. Saint Laurent heels, 3. Givenchy clutch, 4. Miu Miu, 5. Tom Binns, 6. Proenza Schouler, 7. PradaSlide2Slide3Slide1-kopiaSlide4Slide5Slide6

Monaco Life. Dior Resort ’14

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“Monaco made sense as a venue for a few reasons. Historically, there was the connection between Christian Dior and Princess Grace, which is now echoed by Simons’ friendship with the principality’s Princess Charlene. Five minutes of chat with her and it’s obvious that she’s a Euro-royal Katniss Everdeen. She’ll do for Simons in Europe what Jennifer Lawrence has been doing for him in Hollywood. Both of them are young women on the furious move.” The new Resort 2014, 6th Raf Simons collection for Dior happened in Monaco, the city of money, fast cars, casinos and beach. The show was located on a local molo on the beach. But, unfortunately that day, when everything was planned for bright sun (huge open spaces and windows around the runway), a big storm with rain started, and the everything had to be closed. But that’s just a detail. Quite funny one, as Raf thought! The show was superb!

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Resort 2014 at Dior was all about shape and simplicity. The elegance was ver Miss Dior- beautiful silhouttes, great fabrics and colours. Raf Simons as always took inspirations from Christian Diors archives that are full of Monaco style influenced looks. It was all kept in a elegant sport relationship that looked slightly less couture as always- more swimming suites and beatiful jackets. As I said the colours are really refreshing and are mostly found everywhere in Monaco. This is the 6th in the row masterpiece collection by Raf Simons!

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