Belle Epoque. Van Noten SS14

September 25, 2013September 25, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dries Van Noten again did what he’s best at- the Saint Germain chic in his SS14 collection. After hot checked shirts and Parisian boheme inspired feather dresses, it’s the time for Parisian Belle Epoque style. Dries really did a good job. Amazing ultra big ruffles, metallic elements and flower prints look simply fantastic. Beautiful dresses with middle length, chic jackets and street influenced sweatshirts were also here. So, definitely the colour for Van Noten that ruled was metallic gold. And the closing look with Sasha Luss that was all covered with ruffles still sits in my head!

Chic. Christophe Lemaire SS14

September 25, 2013January 28, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

What I love most about Paris Fashion Week’s beginnings, are the collection of all these emerging designers… Well, I lobe the Chanel-Celine part too, but the first one is so… Modern, elegant and elusive! After Julien David’s and Anthony’ Vaccarello’s presentation I want even more of this kind of talents- and here is one- Christophe Lemaire! This young Parisian that for few seasons is an art director at Hermes RTW, is known for his minimalistic Elegance aesthetics… And best presentation venues. This season it’s an super chic Summer living room with palms and curtains… It really works out with the collection for me! I am simply in love with all that beige on coats and this green jumpsuit… So tres chic!

Metal. Anthony Vaccarello SS14

September 24, 2013September 24, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

When Anja Rubik opens a show in a sexy black jacket at Anthony Vaccarello, then… Well, there is no possibility it will be a dissapoinment! With a huge dose of sex appeal, the SS14 collection from this emerging designer is something unbelievably simple, but at the same time cool. Vaccarello is famous for his amazing sexy cuts, bandage dresses and great use of leather… Do you remember the Met Gala red leather dress that Anja wore? The motif of it was already Summer 2014 that has too a similar look. I also loved the dyed jeans- something new at Anthony, while for few seasons we see only mini skirt or evening gowns… For the first Paris Fashion Week collection this season, it feels already… Parisian. And that’s why this my favourite fashion week of all!

Men’s: Mature Cool. Kenzo SS14

June 29, 2013June 29, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was a little bit disappointed with the new Kenzo collection for men. The entrance was superb- a fruit mosaic on the floor, market stalls with Kenzo fresh juices and so on- in other words colours. But that was just the opposite to the clothes that were presented in a huge hall with tribunes around. Models walked on a circular platform very close to the front row, and then went up the stairs on the highest “stage” of this huge chamber, standing, and presenting the cool jackets, bags and many more. It’s all sounds great, but the collection unfortunately wasn’t so good.
The first look gave first impression- boring elegant sportswear. In blue colours. Then it was all grey with some hind of confetti print. Then red phase with black elements on the tshirts. It’s all boring, but cool and kind if nice. There were few cool looks, but last season was much better. Unfortunately, that wasn’t this what I was expecting. Not youthful and full of colourful, but MATURE TO DEATH. And now we won’t wear the Kenzo Tigers but Kenzo Tsunamis.

Men’s: Les Tres Hommes

June 27, 2013June 27, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

HAIDER ACKERMAN- This is his first menswear collection since 2010! From this time I was waiting and waiting and now it is- Haider Ackerman SS14 for men! It is really superb! Of course everyone knew how it more or less will look like- very Haider style. The presentation was similar to women’s- satin, chiffon, silk, dark colour palete were seen and this type of clothing like crotch pants and loose tops. I called this collection an Andalusian chic. First of all the colours- red, orange, kakki, all in dark tones. And it’s all super male style and modern at the same time! Plus the model’s tattoos look marvelous. This collection beats all menswear SS14 for now!
RAF SIMONS- the designer of Dior didn’t suprise nor was bad. It was very Raf- minimalism, prints, shorts, socks and broques. I would wear SOME of these T-shirts, but the rest wasn’t my type. The prints were all about industrial packages, like for example of clusters. But in reality the collection wasn’t very different from last Summer. However it was good!

VALENTINO- it was very classy and still was connected to last season- camo. The sweatshirts and shoes were all over covered with camo! The rest was just as great as this print. Sophisticated sport elegance, leather pockets on shirts, cool trousers and beautiful colours of blue and orange. That was a very casual collection mixed with luxury and cool touch! Love it!