The Studio. Magda Butrym SS26

Magda Butrym‘s The Studio is a collection devoted to the intimate and sacred space where the creative process unfolds – the place where the designer feels at ease, fully in her element. It is here that she designs for her – the woman she has envisioned for over a decade. Within this sanctuary, dressing becomes a ritual of pure pleasure, self-expression, and daring beauty.

Magda’s spring–summer 2026 collection is defined by the idea of instinctive chic. It carries the deliberate sense of having just emerged from the studio — undone, spontaneous, and unconstrained. Reimagined in hyper-sensual forms and defined by abbreviated lengths, the collection exudes a palpable taste for the risqué.

Something slightly askew in an otherwise perfect look – that is where chic emerges. Hence, see-through stockings turned into pants are paired with buoyant peplum blouses; broad-shouldered, waist-cinched leather jackets are worn nonchalantly as dresses; and lingerie-inspired, lace-trimmed ensembles reveal satin underpinnings that peek seductively from beneath. Layers of lace separates create a look that is at once undone and frivolous — liberating, self-pleasing, and unapologetic. A duo of full-skirted silhouettes contrasts – yet harmonizes – like white and black swans: one paired with a silk camisole, the other with a masculine leather coat.

The cloud-like draped hats, created in collaboration with Noel Stewart, accompany most looks like cherries atop a cake, underscoring the collection’s cheeky, light-hearted redefinition of ladylikeness.

The collection’s title is not only an ode to Magda’s creative sanctuary in the heart of Warsaw but also a reference to Paulina Ołowska’s painting The Studio, which depicts a woman painter inspired not only by another woman’s body but also by her character. The warmth, vulnerability, and understanding conveyed through the female gaze – so poignantly captured by the Polish painter who sat front row at the show – set the tone for the collection’s outlook on femininity, reveling in all its unexpected twists and turns.

Drawing equally from fine art traditions and pop culture, Ołowska’s vision of women fuels Butrym’s own. The glamorous, full-skirted heroines of the artist are iconified through a lens that fuses Slavic motifs and sylvan settings with fashion-forward sharpness and cinematic allure. In her practice, Ołowska tells not only her own stories but also those of other women — a perspective that intrigues Magda, encouraging her to draw cross-generational inspiration from figures as diverse as Leonor Fini (with her surrealist visions), Deborah Turbeville (and her mysterious dames), and Sarah Lucas (and her leg-centric silhouettes). Femininity here is not constant; it is a spectrum in flux. She is many.

After the fashion show came a theatrical shift in setting – from runway to studio. For this occasion, I had the utmost pleasure of creating six large-format moodboards offering a rare glimpse into the creative process behind the collection, while simultaneously paying homage to Ołowska’s practice. In her extensive oeuvre, the artist often exhibited personal boards of inspiration as a form of self-retrospection – an act mirrored in Magda’s tribute.

Photo courtesy of Alicja Kozak.

ED’s SELECTION:

Magda Butrym Leather-trimmed Crocheted Mesh Pumps


Magda Butrym Shearling Coat


Magda Butrym Brigitte Large Leather-trimmed Suede Tote


Magda Butrym Crocheted Cotton-lace Bodysuit


Magda Butrym Loom Tweed Pumps

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Challenging. Dior SS26

Jonathan Anderson’s highly anticipated Dior womenswear debut has arrived, and it left me not just confused, but genuinely perplexed. It is, without doubt, a peculiar collection – one that will likely puzzle former Maria Grazia Chiuri clients. Anderson challenged the very perception of what Dior represents today, moving in multiple directions at once: blending the high (the brand’s couture savoir-faire) with the low (unexpected, intentionally blunt-looking flannels), while contextually engaging with Dior’s many past designers – yet keeping the approach far less conceptual than at Loewe. Backstage, he insisted this collection was simply about clothes.

The juxtapositions were striking: an origami-shaped hat, a pleated lace high-neck blouse (visually nodding to Yves Saint Laurent’s work for the maison), cargo-like balloon pants, and flower-shaped pumps – all colliding into an ‘everything, everywhere, all at once’ overdose. But that collision is precisely Anderson’s point: a shock factor that, in retrospect, often feels uncannily right.

The seemingly levitating gowns with inflated bows? Undeniably lovely, especially in motion. But a khaki denim shirt paired with a pastel pink mini skirt a moment later? Awkward, jarringly out of place. And yet, perhaps that very sense of ‘out-of-place-ness’ is Anderson’s true power at Dior.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Psychedelic Chic. Dries Van Noten SS26

The Dries Van Noten collection is one I suspect I’ll appreciate more once it arrives in stores. Julian Klausner’s second outing for Papa’s brand was overall good, but somewhat… unresolved. He aimed to make the line-up feel joyful, easy, and optimistic – and he succeeded in that regard. To achieve it, he turned to surfing as his theme. “Being around surfers is always a good time,” the designer mused. A slouchy men’s jacket paired with red floral bermudas channeled a surf-chic spirit, as did the psychedelic prints – just as brilliant as those from Dries’ archives. And yet, despite the abundance of looks and myriad styling options, the collection still left me wanting something more.

ED’s SELECTION:

Dries Van Noten Gathered Satin-jersey Maxi Skirt


Dries Van Noten Cropped Crepe Blazer



Dries Van Noten Belted Intarsia Wool-blend Cardigan


Dries Van Noten Leather-trimmed Shell Sneakers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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The Pain Of beauty. Matières Fécales SS26

Beauty is pain. But this pain is also an unstoppable force. The most heart-wrenching show of the season is now behind us. Matières Fécales’s Steven Raj Bhaskaran said of his partner, Hannah Rose Dalton: “Watching her walk out into the world every day, receiving such judgmental reactions toward her expression, makes me feel sad sometimes about the intolerance of the world around us. It sends a message that being different from the norm isn’t valued in this society – it’s usually degraded. Regardless, she keeps walking through the laughter, the pointing, the stares, and often, the aggression.”

Being different from the norm has always been fashion’s prerogative, especially for designers like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Rick Owens. The duo behind Matières Fécales aim to continue that legacy by challenging conventional beauty standards: not only with their looks, but the multi-generational, diverse characters they cast in their shows. They unveiled their remarkable Spring–Summer 2026 collection at Place Vendôme – where else, if not at the very epitome of Parisian vanity? – a lineup filled with frayed tweeds à la Chanel, strong-shouldered riffs on Dior’s Bar jacket, and couture-inflected, corseted gowns that, from one angle, objectify the wearer to extremes, and from another, become a bulletproof shelter, an armor of sorts.

Bhaskaran and Dalton draw on fashion history directly, but with a fierce bravado. Their message is clear: in an industry where everything is expected to be commercial and sanitized, charging head-on into radical beauty is nothing less than an act of rebellion.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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French-Extreme. Saint Laurent SS26

While watching the Saint Laurent livestream and seeing all the celebrities arrive, I couldn’t help but wonder: are they real? Do they walk on the same earth we mortals do? Those girls and boys feel so distant – so distanced. And that’s exactly how Anthony Vaccarello narrates his Saint Laurent. The outdoor show, staged against the Eiffel Tower and awash with white hydrangeas, could not have been more pompous or otherworldly – but that’s its appeal. As in Vaccarello’s recent collections, this one revisited themes from Saint Laurent’s archives, repeated and perfected over and over again to near death. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

SAINT LAURENT Tallulah Patent-leather Wedge Sandals


SAINT LAURENT Leather Jacket


SAINT LAURENT Leather Skirt


SAINT LAURENT Draped Wool-jersey Mini Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited