Awakened. Lemaire SS26

July 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh-Tran – who has given birth since the Lemaire show in January – wanted to deliver a collection that felt “awakened”. It certainly was awakened in terms of sensuality. The Lemaire man and woman are sheding cocooning layers and confidently reveal some flesh, a lot more leg. Think a super-chic crinkled leather, knee-length skirt worn with a blazer and a pair of mesh sock-sandal heels, or else silky culottes that gave baggy drawers a sensual spin. One look was especially unexpected: a beautiful lace dress in ochre, worn with an oversized trench coat and chestnut pumps. You don’t see lace frequently on the Lemaire runway, and it felt so right.

ED’s SELECTION:

LEMAIRE Leather Ballet Flats

LEMAIRE Draped Convertible Paneled Organic Silk-chiffon And Silk-jersey Top

LEMAIRE Twisted High-rise Barrel-leg Jeans

LEMAIRE Gear Leather Shoulder Bag

LEMAIRE Belted Wool-blend Trench Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Godly. Rick Owens SS26

June 30, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

With the monumental retrospective that has just opened at the Palais Galliera (can’t wait to see it autumn!), the ritualistic, ecclesiastical fashion show that had models dive – or rather baptize themselves – in the pool of Palais De Tokyo’s courtyard, and the totemic structure that fronted the guests of the scene, Rick Owens can be easily compared to a godly entity (with a huge, huge following of loyal clients and fans from all over the world). His new collection sublimates all his divine powers. Nylon, denim, silk taffeta, leather, and flesh are the main materials at play: Owens sliced shorts, cropped and frayed jackets, and unzipped tranches of biker in order to present sections of skin beneath. A bare, sculpted chest is the ultimate Rick accessory. Fringed leather cloaks – made in collaboration with Straytukay – sat on their wearers like tattered bat wings. Dracula collared leather coats created a powerful clash with fluorescent, sequinned maxi-dresses two models wore near the finale. Two polar energies shape Owens’ work: affection for darkness and the need for vulnerability. This collection handsomely presented us an exquisite synergy.

ED’s SELECTION:

Rick Owens Leather Straight-leg Shorts

Rick Owens Solid-Frame Shield Sunglasses

Rick Owens x Moncler Men’s Radiance Padded Stitch Bomber Jacket

Rick Owens Heavy Jersey Oversized Tommy T-Shirt

Rick Owens Nubuck Suede High-Top Sneakers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Sense Of Skin. Hed Mayner SS26

June 30, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

For spring-summer 2026, Hed Mayner sheds structured, voluminous layers – and opens up to a “sense of skin“. “I wanted to have something that is suspended from the body,” he said, “that when you move, it fills you with air.” The designer delivered on the promise: his signature, cocooning silhouettes never looked that refreshingly breezy and sumptuously light. A standout were his handkerchief-hem bottoms; they billowed as they walked and represented the joy Mayner has found in this new exploration. He also brought cool, buoyant languidness to his jackets, now with draped capelets that do intriguing, draped magic around the arms. The designer recently moved to Italy: it shows in the collection’s sweet nonchalance.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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The Debut. Dior Men SS26

June 28, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

For some reason, you always expect a seismic shift from a debut as big as Jonathan Anderson’s first collection for Dior. Interestingly, his first line-up for Loewe – over a decade ago – was menswear too, and many people were puzzled, just like now with his take on Dior. And that’s ok.

Rewriting Dior isn’t something you can pack effortlessly into one collection. Anderson has a vision for the brand for the upcoming few seasons, and probably only when we see more of it, his debut will make more sense – when a bigger picture will take shape.

At the moment, all I see is a continuation of a Dior Men narrative that was planted by Kim Jones: British flamboyance, twisted with codes coming from Jonathan’s namesake label, JW Anderson (like those oversized, millefeuille chino shorts). There were witty references to the maison’s heritage, revived through a new lens: the “Bar” jacket was made from an Irish Donegal tweed – a matter of national pride for Anderson – which featured here and there throughout the collection. There was also an intriguing play with fashion historicism, like Louis 16th frock coat worn with ordinary cotton trousers. I will note that such brands as Marcus Allen’s The Society Archive or ERL experiment with similar vintage-vintage notions for a while now. Interestingly, the collection’s affection for flaneurism had echoes of Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garçons.

I might still not understand the show’s connection with Andy Warhol (the brand released polaroids depicting his famous friends as the collection’s teaser), but I see a dialogue between two fictional man: Louis de Pointe du Lac, played by Brad Pitt in “Interview With The Vampire”, and Ennis, embodied by Heath Ledger in “Brokeback Mountain”. Dramatic, knitted capes (and of course the “Dracula” tote) and slim, brocade waistcoats created an intriguing friction with raw flannel shirts and faded denim.

Designers entering a new brand have more questions than answers – just like the spectators of their debuts. I’m not fully buying new Dior yet, but I look forward to the next pieces of the Anderson puzzle.

ED’s SELECTION:

JW Anderson Oversized Shell Bomber Jacket

JW Anderson Men’s Straight-Leg Jeans

Christian Dior Vintage Gold-plated Bracelet

Loewe Cotton Corduroy-trimmed Checked Wool-blend Padded Jacket

Loewe Men’s High-Rise Cargo Shorts

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Taking Notes. Dries Van Noten SS26

June 28, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

At Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner delivered a triumphant menswear debut – one so true to the brand that you can barely notice Papa Dries’ absence (he’s quietly consulting the new creative director in-between other personal projects – like renovating a palazzo in Venice).

What resonated most in Klausner’s spring-summer 2026 attempt is the actual joy of dressing up – or rather, not fearing to experiment with clothes. At first nothing seems to match in this collection, but then you see the beautiful method behind all that madness. A gorgeously tailored jacket worn with a floral sarong? Yes. Oversized grey sweatshirt topped with a handsome, embellished cummerbund? Yes. A cropped jacket in red roses styled with electric-blue biker shorts? Hell yes!

This outing offers not just great clothes, but absolutely inspiring solutions that will pimp up your summer wardrobe. I’m taking notes.