Geraldo da Conceicao is the new designer of Sonia Rykiel already for three seasons including AW14… and I am missing real Sonia. I mean, Geraldo, (never heard of him, but he designed for few houses, making his name unknown) isn’t creating bad collections. But they are so shapeless. Kind of pretty, but without WOW like it was with Sonia. The AW14 was all about beige (so MaxMara) furs and Moi print. There was also an interesting colour splash at the end… although, I can’t say it’s shocking. Sonia Rykiel is a house with history, known for fun and Parisienne chic. And it can’t get “minimalistic” like everything. I don’t feel the spark.
Parisian Chic
Distingué. Rochas AW14
Aah, what a magnificent collection was that, Mr. Dell Acqua! The Italian designer of best-selling No.21 just got the old, a bit forgotten Parisian label into his hands- Rochas, which was designed before by Marco Zanini. The debut collection for fall 2014 is very elegant, chic, avant-garde… The yellow gloves matched with embroidered gowns, embellished lacquered shirts with signature Dell AcQua shiny details, coats looking like cardigans… And that gold dress was ALL- so flawless and chic. I must admit, that Alessandro, although Italian, got perfectly what the Parisian chic is- mysterious, elusive, a bit innocent. That collection, with Malgosia Bela at start and finale, surely got my heart- just like No.21, which seems to be more commercial.
Men’s: Paris Chic. AMI AW14
AMI is the moment’s hottest label coming from Paris- it’s aim is to bring cool Parisian chic back to men’s wardrobe. As it’s their first runway collection (the venue was a snowy park), it was really buzzy. And not only because of the guest model, Caroline de Maigret, who wore a tuxedo in super chic way. The collection itself was fantastic, full of vibrant red colour and comfortable pieces that every men ought to have. My favourite- the totally camel look. This is a perfection.
Chic. Celine Resort 2014
That was such surprise this morning to see the Celine Resort 2014 on their site! As Phoebe Philo didn’t let the collection to go out within others like Dior and Chanel because of Zara’s copying, Celine Resort 2014 was uploaded silently today at night. As nobody knows anything about it, by accident I saw the colledtion… and wow! The pre-collection is nothing like SS14- it’s kept in beiges, linen fabrics, fur and python. Yeah, fur. The furs were bigger than the ones in the AW13 collection! And everything out of mink… for Spring. The python leather vest looked pretty cool; the nurse dresses in pastel colours were cute; sweaters, sweatpants and coats were classical and simple. Very Celine and chic. Definitely this impressive collection is one of the best for Spring 2014… and the birkenstocks are again back in fashion!
Lemaire’s Summer
Christophe Lemaire is definitely one of the hot names in Paris. He is designing for Hermes, and his own, beautiful label, making both of the houses minimalistic and fresh. At Hermes, Christophe took us to the jungle- but in very luxurious way. More, you wouldn’t go to the jungle in one of these jumpsuit, but live in one of these luxurious hotels with villas… Presented in a beautiful environment with lots of palms and trees, the collection was a mix of practical resort life and luxurious Hermes heritage. And if looking to the Lemaire’s line, we may be still located around the palm trees, but in a beautiful living room in one of Saint Honore apartments in Paris. SS14 for Christophe Lemaire was all about Parisian chic cut with a twist of exotic life. And the shoes… They really look awesome!
Design & Culture by Ed 