Party All Night. Marc Jacobs Resort’15

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Showing his collection in an old Manhattan townhouse, it’s visible that Marc is somewhere between relax and parting. His AW14 was so relaxed and the Resort’15 is a total contrast- the models like Waleska Gorczevski or Esmeralda Reynolds presented printed, colourful party dresses full of sexy embroideries and Victoriana flowers. We could also notice the ethernal sequined mini-skirt a la Dolly Parton and the 60’s inspired patterns of flowers and other Marc-like things.”People getting dressed up, going out. Happy, lively,” offered Jacobs’ design director, Joseph Carter, when he was asked for a few words backstage. In other words, thanks to the sparkle and bliss, Marc Jacobs got our New Year Eve dresses all sorted up. Personally, I love this collection… as usual in case of MJ (and these fur cuties got me!).

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Charles James.

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“Charles who?” was the general reaction when the Metropolitan Museum of Art announced that its next fashion exhibition, opening May 8, would be Charles James: Beyond Fashion. No, the designer, who worked from the twenties through his death in the seventies, is not as infamous as the punks or as well known as McQueen—but he’s no less important, fascinating, or even exciting. James, a flamboyant character who, born in England, spent his most productive years in New York, was, along with Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga, one of the most forward-thinking, innovative designers of his time. You have him to thank for the cupless bra, the puffer coat, and that zipper in the back of your evening gown. The designer was best known as a master of sculpture—instead of fitting to a mannequin, he would craft epic forms, inspired by his background in millinery and architecture, and structure his gowns around them.”

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Weird Party. Marc Jacobs SS14

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“It’s more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It’s a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway.” And this, more interestingly: “I didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks” said Marc Jacobs about his SS14 collection that with grace closed the New York Fashion Week. The venue was amazing- a huge, huge place, that reminded of something like a beach apocalypse- beach chairs, towels, sand, trees, cigarettes were lying in chaos everywhere. The models (the set of them was really impressive) were for example Cara Delevigne who flew straight from London through Atlantic to walk the runway for Marc and comeback on London Fashion Week… Sky Ferreira (!!!), Edie Campbell, Lily Mcmenamy, Georgia May Jagger and Hanne Gaby were also here. Coming back to collection, Marc Jacobs broke all the rules of the SS14 but in a good way- when everybody were into pure minimalism and pale clothes, MJ slapped it, with a print, embroidery and colour bomb- in a much darker colour than I expected. The clothes were inpired with Victorian era, widow weeds and some 21st century- birkenstocks again rocked the runway just like funny backpack totes! Definitely, that was one of these “weird” parties I would love to come…

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