Brazilian artist Ernesto Neto has joined forces with shamen, artists and plant masters from the Huni Kuin, an indigenous tribe from Peru and Brazil for the Aru Kuxipa exhibition at Thyssen-Bornemisza Art Contemporary in Vienna. The result is a ethereal “site of healing”, that lets audience discover the lives and spiritual practices of a smal group, over 8000 kilometres away from their lands. Neto, one of Brazil’s leading contemporary artists, is known for his huge installations of “amorphous“, pod-like hanging sculptures, or “fabric stalactites”, as he calls them. Soft and made of polyester filled with rice or sand, his work is playful and sensual, his pieces invites viewers to touch, lie on, and even smell the work. “The Huni Kuin had to create a new culture because they were previously forbidden to exercise it – the rituals, dancing, singing, speaking in their own languages“. Now, their culture is alive in the heart of Vienna.
A.F. Vandevorst is a Belgian brand that always impresses me. But this time because of two reasons. The first thing is their SS15 window display in their Antwerp flag-ship store, which is all about their fashion show parachute dress which is a true work of art. I am simply amazed with it’s mind-blowing effect. Then, the second thing: their elusive, slightly eerie winter collection look-book. The clothes inspired with Peru (note all these pompons and shearling), beautifully combined with A.F.’s signature rock’n’roll edge look more than cool. Decadent, sculptural and niche. That’s how I would describe the spark hidden in this collection, and the brand’s really great ideas.
The AF Vandevorst couple presented a collection, which was very personal to them – their favourite hard rock music meets Peru, their favourite lately visited country. Long leather boots contrasted with Peruvian pom-pons while tribal-inspired way of wearing scarves looked ultra-cool with fur-trimmed dresses. And all of that was interpreted in deeply poetic black. “In our Belgian way, we took out all the colors,” An said backstage. Rose floral jacquard, patterned Quechua weaving motifs, layered Andean skirts, and Spanish colonial frill were thus all made black and once or twice white and grey. The avant-garde Stephen Jones hats were all about condors and signature AF Vandevorst fedoras. The silhouettes were long, lean, and brooding, even floor sweeping in some cases. The band playing along-side the presentation made the entire impression even better and emotional. Huge, huge bravo for An and Filip!
The Tibi show always make me excited. The brand perfectly fuses the Dowtown cool girl from New York and different ethnic groups of the world. For summer, Amy Smilovic took us to Japan and Peru, thanks to which we had beautiful embroideries and quilting and also minimal cuts and practical forms. Culottes are again a hit (like, every label has them this season, but Tibi culottes are always the most epic) and hats à la Pharrell by Reinhard Plank have a more affordable approach! Seriously, there are many amazing things about this collection… even the fact that Anya Ziourova styled the show makes me obsessed! Tibi, I love you!