Beauty, Awaken. Lanvin Pre-Fall 2026

December 12, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nearly a year has passed since Peter Copping’s debut at Lanvin. In that time, he has managed to reawaken the beauty of a brand that had been in a coma since Alber Elbaz’s glory days. For pre-fall 2026, the creative director of the oldest operating French maison pursued a refined elegance that feels comforting in its powerful discipline – while also delving deeper into Jeanne Lanvin’s history.

Not many people know that Venice holds a particular significance in the house’s chronicles. It was here that Jeanne traveled with her niece, Marianne, buying fabrics and visiting glass workshops. Archival photographs show Madame Lanvin in a white jacket and a black skirt falling just below the knee – a silhouette she favored whenever she visited the city on the water. That ensemble found its way into Copping’s pre-collection, looking contemporary and desirable.

Alongside creative meditations on Mariano Fortuny’s pleats and Murano glass beads, Copping also introduced striking double-flared silhouettes, ornamented capelets, and tweed tailoring featuring a skirt pinched with a brooch. One velvet column gown in ink black is dramatically gathered by a modernist, brooch-like embellishment. This one felt absolutely Parisian, “chic ultime“.

So far, Copping is offering Lanvin a truly exquisite vision.

ED’s SELECTION:

Lanvin Scarf-detailed Velvet And Gathered Chiffon Blouse

Lanvin Asymmetric Wool Skirt

Lanvin Pleated Chiffon Gown

Lanvin Double-breasted Satin-trimmed Wool Blazer

Lanvin Cat Leather Clutch

Lanvin Scarf-detailed Satin-trimmed Velvet Midi Dress

Lanvin Leather Ankle Boots

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Blue. Lanvin SS26

October 1, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Peter Copping delivered a sublime sophomore season at Lanvin. Not only would Jeanne Lanvin be proud – I believe Alber Elbaz would have loved it too. Blue – specifically a dusty shade of Giotto blue – has been synonymous with the house since Jeanne’s days. This season, Copping employed it in a myriad of electrifyingly beautiful ways: from the runway’s setting to a phenomenally chic, parachute-volume silk blouse.

But that wasn’t the end of his references to Lanvin’s core codes. He confidently revisited the drop-waisted, wide-panniered robe de style of the mid-1920s – Jeanne Lanvin’s all-time signature – recasting it as something absolutely contemporary and effortlessly wearable.

Ribbons also appeared, woven, tied, or left to flow as fringes: a respectful nod to Elbaz, who had resurrected the maison from years of obsolescence. The collection unfolded as a visual feast, a solid offering that restores Lanvin’s place as an arbiter of Parisian chic.

Copping clearly knows what he’s doing – with Jazz Age geometric prints, moiré coats, and a refreshingly sensual menswear silhouette: a cropped trench paired with short shorts. And let’s not forget the headwraps.

ED’s SELECTION:

Lanvin Draped Crepe De Chine Maxi Dress

Lanvin Scarf-detailed Gathered Lamé Blouse

Lanvin Asymmetric Satin-trimmed Wool Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Awaken. Lanvin AW25

January 28, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

When the news broke that Peter Copping is taking Lanvin under his wings, a collective sigh of relief went through the industry. The absolutely talented designer, known for his deliciously refined stints at Nina Ricci and Oscar De La Renta, is a master of supreme elegance and chic femininity. And Lanvin – the oldest operating French maison – just needed a person like him after all these years of creative confusion that started since Alber Elbaz’s departure back in 2015. Yes, Lanvin was steadily falling into oblivion for a decade.

Peter’s debut collection was a beautiful return to form – his and the brand’s. It felt like a much-needed moment of true savoir-faire – especially after the embarrassingly dishonest, faux-elegant Jacquemus outing (in which the designer knocked off everything from Pieter Mulier’s Alaia to Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta on the way) that took place just a couple of hours before.

The unquestionable success of Copping’s autumn-winter 2025 collection lies in the effortlessness with which approached Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy. There are no literal references to her 1920s silhouettes or archaic-looking eveningwear (a huge mistake both Bouchra Jarrar and Bruno Sialelli, Copping’s predecessors, did during their blurry tenures). What’s present is a sense of understated modernity shaped by artisan techniques, unpretentious tailoring and richness of materials (these velvets! those crushed-pleats!). The finale dresses – especially the gold number – are just what the red carpet needs today.

This is a great beginning of a Parisian rebirth.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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