Future is Now. Louis Vuitton SS19

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While Nicolas Ghesquière‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection for Louis Vuitton was a bourgeois wardrobe fantasy, this season the designer returns to his all-time favourite themes: sci-fi, 80s call-backs and the clash between the old and the new. Innovative, rubber-like materials were used in architectural coats (that instantly recalled Nicolas’ brilliance at Balenciaga). The way the designer combined over-sized, space suit sleeves with meticulously embellished mini-dresses was so, so good. Need a fashion space-suit? Ghesquière has you covered with a floral ensemble. But there were also more approachable, easy clothes. Take the perfectly tailored blazers and boldly printed tank-tops. Oh, and the models! The casting stunned with beautiful diversity, from gorgeous new-comers and androgynous girls to runway veterans and transgender males. For Nicolas, the future is now.

Also, it’s the end of my Paris fashion week coverage. And a very happy good-bye to the fashion month.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

New Feminine. Miu Miu SS19

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For Miuccia Prada, femininity isn’t just pretty. At both, Prada and Miu Miu, the designer surprisingly kept the lengths short this season, but not overly saccharine. But it was Miu Miu’s spring-summer 2019 collection that felt not just relevantly feminine, but real. I might even call it my favourite dispatch from the entire Paris fashion week. ‘Cracked’ frocks with exaggerated ribbons; masculine blazers worn over satin shirts and chunky knits; sheer (and faux python leather) pencil skirts combined with below-the-knee stockings; denim shirt-dresses brightened up with rhinestones… each look was a gorgeous styling inspiration. Some of the pieces were very retro – take the Gatsby-esque sequined mini-dress that closed the show – but somehow not pretentious. The model casting was insanely good as well, as the girls’ personal features elevated every single garment. Those aren’t armors, that’s for sure. But also, it would be a mistake to call Miu Miu’s latest offering ‘girly’. Multi-faceted, bold, mature, but not boringly formal or elegant, are closer connotations. Whatever it is, Miu Miu is intriguing, and that’s something I missed from other brands in Paris.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Visible. A.P.C. SS19

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Jean Touitou‘s A.P.C. is around for more than 30 years, but it surprisingly still feels like a young, niche brand – with dozens of stores worldwide. This season it seemed that the brand’s founder wanted do something a bit more mature and visible than an intimate presentation in the headquarters. He came up with quite big offering for women and men, filled with A.P.C. classics (and not only). The colour splash – featuring joyous shades of yellow and pink – were something new to Touitou’s repertoire. While the label’s collections often focus on the visibility of the clothes, I had an impression that this time styling became the key. The models’ rockabilly hair brought some spice to the tres chic shirtdresses and lovely denim pieces. A.P.C. is in expansion mode, fashion- and business-forward. To be honest, I loved it’s off-the-radar nature and I would really, really hate to see it go the, lets say, Zadig & Voltaire way. Well, I’m sure Touitou won’t be risking his loyal fan-base…

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Proper. Givenchy SS19

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Clare Waight Keller gradually finds her grip at Givenchy with very proper ready-to-wear for both, women and men. This season, she proposed a certain toughness – clothes that empower the wearer. Take that look featuring high-waisted pants with a leather jacket tucked in. Doesn’t it make the silhouette stronger and more confident? Military cargo pants and classical trench coats bring even more poise to the line-up. Of course there was evening wear, something Waight Keller evidently feels most comfortable in. We’ve got geometrically cut dress kept in bold colours, but also blazers and gowns plunged in metallic rhinestones, fringed and sequins. Somehow it all looked as light as a feather. It’s a good collection, but as I said earlier, Clare tends to keep Givenchy’s pret-a-porter proper. Would love to see something a bit more surprising for her next season.

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Collage by Edward kanarecki.