Fantasy. Valentino Couture AW19

Summing up: it’s a fantasy.

With a 5-star line-up of models including the great Lauren Hutton, each singular silhouette that came down the Valentino runway added more and more meaning to a show that celebrated the opulence of diversity through a “gathering of individuals“, as colours, shapes, headpieces, flowers and fringes came together in one stunning presentation of fashion design and its finest. Long sentence, I know, but Pierpaolo Piccioli makes you feel ecstatic with his haute couture. From the yellow tiered wool yarn fringing and Hmong/Miao tribe-inspired headpieces to cartoonish leopard prints and Matisse cut-outs in acid colours, this show was spectacular. The cut, the plumage details, those subtle Yves Saint Laurent references, the out-of-this-world craftsmanship (note that pink dress made out of squares!) the joy, the magnificience… this collection is so deep in its beauty that it truly touches your soul. Bravo, bravo, bravo.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Best Looks from AW19 Couture…


The library lounge venue at Chanel and models walking to Portishead’s forever intriguing ‘Glory Box’…

While in overall the autumn-winter 2019 haute couture had more mehs (Daniel Roseberry’s overcharged debut at Schiaparelli, the chaos at Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior…) than yeahs, I still managed to find a few looks that really, really won it. And, of course Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino utterly stole my heart, but on that in a separate post. So, here are the three most gorgeous outfits I took notice of this season (again, except for Valentinoooo!).

This Viktor & Rolf look is like a Marc Chagall painting, in all of its aspects: from the paint-like texture of the felt material to the witchy, oneiric aura surrounding it. I call this art-and-coven couture.

Virginie Viard‘s debut couture collection at Chanel first felt like a snooze to me. But then I grasped its point: the beauty in regal. It’s just so rare in today’s fashion. The look worn by Sara Grace Wallerstedt – a pleated, high-collar, sleeveless shirt and a mustard skirt – is pure elegance.

With Clare Waight Keller, one season is a miss, another is a success. The autumn-winter 2019 couture outing was her best one yet. She has let some drama to Givenchy. The velvet, black dress with a lowered crinoline is so refined and sharp. So chic, yet in a way… disturbing? That’s the spirit of noblesse radicale.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Spiritual. GmbH SS20

As Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik of the Berlin-based brand GmbH explained, “we have always talked about protection, but this time we wanted to make a gentler collection and focus on spiritual, or intellectual, protection.” Huseby and Isik looked to their cultural heritage (which is fusion of Pakistani, Norwegian, Turkish and German) and focused especially on the Nazar, also known as Evil Eye. Wearing an evil eye is a form of superstitious protection from misfortune at the hands of fate, and GmbH’s models were heartily armored in beautiful brocade evil eye shirts, flowing many-eyed silk shirts and trousers, T-shirts, and gorgeous dresses in intense blue and pink. Good energy is always welcome. The designers as well impressed with their clever tailoring that was just the right balance between formal and sporty. GmbH gets better and better with every season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Dream State. Loewe SS20

Jonathan Anderson continues his escapist formula at Loewe and it keeps on surprising. Spring-summer 2020 collection for men was like a picture of spiritual escape into what he called “a childlike dream state”. The outing felt like a peaceful march of modern day hippies, wearing the intentionally unmatching accessories, flowing, gender-fluid kaftan-dresses and fleecy, feather-light knits. Eclecticism and handmade crafts are one of the most important qualities Anderson nurtures at Loewe, and with his collage-y sensibility for styling, he makes it sophisticated, yet desirable at the same time. You want to dress in this spirit, all year round. “We have to be aware of what’s going on in the world, but sometimes it’s good to dream. Why should people not be in a fantasy state? Maybe they’ll find something.” Words to live by.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.