Strange Times. Haider Ackermann AW18

March 7, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

“We’re going through strange times; I wanted to have this fragility, but [also] something very uplifting,” is how Haider Ackermann summed up his autumn-winter 2018 moment. Underneath the Ackermann classics – like draped coats in animal spots or masterfully tailored jackets – a blast of electric colours emerged in form of tights and matching boots. But there was something unfamiliarly feminine about the collection – just see the pastel pink midi-dress in velvet or the mustard frock. Still, they feel just fine in here – it’s nothing new that the designer knows how to combine colours. The woman that Haider portrays used to wear a protective armour for the past few seasons. Now, she goes against the flow in her badass mullet and bold, polished neons.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Refined. Nina Ricci AW18

March 6, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

So what’s the deal with Guillaume Henry at Nina Ricci? After seasons of working at the heritage brand, the designer was reported to leave due to the maison‘s underfunding. Then, Nina Ricci’s company responded to the news by denying Henry’s departure, just hours after the recent fashion show. Oh, that crazy fashion…

But still, would you say Ricci needs a new designer? Throughout those three years, Guillaume has changed the label into an exciting and very refined place for women seeking the ‘Parisian allure’ (if we really need to use a cliché). Shortly, those are delightful, beautiful dresses, coats and accessories. Although the autumn-winter 2018 collection indeed felt as if it was witnessing a budget cut comparing to the last seasons, it was… well, good. Even very good – see the fur coats; the chic trackpants; voluminous shirts. I think that’s the main problem with old houses being suddenly revived by investors. The owners want big profit, they want the brand to be on everybody’s lips – but is giving the right amount of time for the designer even taken under consideration? Worth consideration.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Show Off. Y/Project AW18

March 6, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Once can’t help, but I note that Glenn Martens‘ autumn-winter 2018 collection for Y/Project had something of a show-girl. The venue, which appeared to be the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées on the fancy Avenue Montaigne, was also a clue. Spotlight stealers? Draped taffeta gowns, intricate embroideries on sheer tops, floor-sweeping lengths and a couture-ish tube dress swishing with gold fringing. Of course, all that galore and splendour done in a signature, Y/Project manner, read: stylishly over-sized and distorted.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Frenchie. Paco Rabanne AW18

March 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

The term ‘Parisian chic’ is tremendously polluted in today’s fashion. Yet still, Julien Dossena somehow makes it authentic. Not going too heavy on the brand’s signature chain-mail this time around, the designer of Paco Rabanne made Breton stripes look, yes, relevant. There was a trench coat. There was a beige turtleneck. There was a pair of straight blue jeans. While those might be basics, I bet Paco Rabanne will finally catch its customer the next season with these extremely simple, but honestly rare to find pieces. Of course, not everything about the autumn-winter 2018 collection was about Frenchie essentials. The eveningwear is incredibly good, with all the plastic sequins and metallics.

Dossena finds the proper balance.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

New Sensuality. Chloé AW18

March 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

The modernist architecture of Maison de la Radio anticipated Natacha Ramsay-Levi‘s contemporary sensuality that the designer implements at Chloé. In her second season for the house, Natacha’s vision becomes even clearer and understandable. Chloé is no longer a label with flowing dresses for running around the fields. It’s a brand for women of profession, culture, life. Vintage lace, tiers of goat hair and knitted ruffles were beautifully combined with earth tones and subtle cuts. Ramsay-Levi’s femininity, however, clashes with something slightly more heavy: think boots with metalwork heels or chain necklaces made of gold pendants, coins and keys. While Chloé seems to be the most realistic and powerful collection of this Paris fashion week up to now, note it’s not a Phoebe Philo clichéd tribute collection. It’s impressive to see, how Natacha builds her own, idiosyncratic language for the females of today.