Too Edgy. Miu Miu AW17

March 19, 2017March 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Back in 2014, System Magazine asked Miuccia Prada to explain the differences between her main line and Miu Miu. According to the interview, designing at Miu Miu is much less complicated for Miuccia, whereas at Prada, it’s sometimes a struggle – the label is a synonym of ‘sophistication’, both for women’s and men’s fashion. Miu Miu’s soul is naive; spontaneous; immediate. For autumn-winter 2017, I didn’t get those three terms at Miu Miu. Edginess is definitely something that accompanied a Miu Miu girl throughout the years – but this season, it’s too much. Not that I don’t have a soft spot for purple faux-fur (especially when it’s used as a carpet) or fluffy hats. But I doubt that this overdose of 70s psychedelia and 30s technicolor does any good. Bold prints, over-sized collars, tiaras, geek boots: although all of them are Miu Miu signatures, this time they feel senseless combined together. In other words, the collection looks ridiculous. And surely incomparable to Prada collection (which was presented a few weeks ago in Milan), where the designer took us to another level of femininity.

1987. A.P.C. AW17

March 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

1987. The year A.P.C. was found by Jean Touitou. 2017 – the brand celebrates its 30th anniversary. 30 years of apparel clothing that actually defines the real nature of ready-to-wear. It’s often unclear why A.P.C. became one of the most beloved brands. “It’s boring“, one might say. So what? Their raw denim is well-cut. T-shirts last for years and make the customer satisfied. Trench coats and white shirts are ultimate essentials. A.P.C.’s branding is aesthetical perfection, just like the boutiques, music albums and candles. What’s best – although A.P.C. shows during Paris fashion week, it stays surprisingly affordable (and believe me, when the sale season starts, their Mitte store in Berlin – just like in another cities – becomes a treasure chest).

For autumn-winter 2017, as you might expect, the creative director decided to keep it classic. Anniversaries are no big deal! The clothes are the priority, so it’s quite guaranteed you will fall in love with every single piece. Fur jackets, maxi-dresses, even the thick socks. Oh, and denim! Really, wear it the you want. Over a coat, as a scarf, a lovely jumpsuit or simple jacket.

Icy Days. Sacai AW17

March 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

While watching Chitose Abe‘s Sacai latest outing, I had no doubts it was a proper, winter collection. While other designers go for mindless slip-dresses and flesh-exposing silhouttes, Abe layered, layered and again, layered. The duvet jacket with fur collar and colour inserts will be a perfect choice for freezier days. What’s more, Chitose shares tips on how to wear a) ankle-lenght dresses under voluminous outerwear and b) style denim midi-skirts when the temperature drops. The designer is a master in terms of textile combinations – I loved the way she mixed warm tweed with sheer, black silk in skirts and jackets. Brilliant!

Permanent. Céline AW17

March 17, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

For her autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Phoebe Philo invited Philippe Parreno to create an abstract, fully rotating venue. The eclectic set was the ultimate sign of what to expect from Céline this season – contrasts. Philo has those moments in her career, when she goes extremely arty, and then, strictly minimal. This time, it was both – sharp masculine blazers and white crisp shirts were harmoniously balanced with incredibly big blankets carried by the models and rain-coats with map of Paris printed all over them. But it doesn’t matter whether we’re speaking of a classical, black coat, or long-sleeved dress in burgundy – it was all about comfort combined with a kind of elusive sensuality. Flowing, maxi-dresses and fringed skirts were worn by the models as if they weren’t on a fashion show, but on the street. Surprisingly, Philo went for something more simple in case of shoes, switching from the two-colour heels of the last season. Semi-cowboy boots, ballet pumps, flats, all in earthy tones. Just like the bags, which will carry anything. Those clothes are permanent: they are here to serve for years.

Céline

Eerie Chic. Balenciaga AW17

March 15, 2017March 15, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cristobal Balenciaga’s couture in today’s world – that’s what Demna Gvasalia‘s thought about for this season. His third, womenswear show for Balenciaga was the most literal nod towards the maison’s founder up to date, as it ended with voluminous, ball gowns. But they wouldn’t be Demna, if they weren’t at the proper level of peculiarity. One of them was a walking pile of feathers, styled with a bazaar bag (also covered in feathers, from the bottom to the top). Those colossal bags, instead of conventional clutches, were another clue that Gvasalia isn’t going straight haute couture path.

If talking of more wearable pieces, the Georgian designer went for something sensually chic – and this time, it was intriguingly elegant, no jokes. Femme fatale pencil skirts (made of haute car mats), over-sized sweaters, over-the-knee boots (last season’s spandex obsession continues) – it was sexy and eerie simultaneously. Although Demna has established his Balenciaga classics – the bags, duvet jackets, killer hills – and might already rest on his laurels, he thrives to develop a continuous language at the brand, every time with a new twist and new perspective.