Men’s – Sober and Grounded. Dries Van Noten AW17

January 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Autumn-winter 2017 wasn’t just another brilliant men’s collection chez Dries Van Noten. 99 is quite a number – and presenting your 99th collection is a big deal. Other designers would do a big party after the show, while Dries, in his manner, took a moment for reflection. “I wanted it to be grounded.” Deciding on what’s essential for him in a men’s wardrobe, the Belgian designer took a spin on basics, keeping them slightly more sober than usual. Wool coats with boxy shoulders (sounds Balenciaga, but looks much more refined); a great line of denim pants (!); Dr. Martens-like boots. Van Noten doesn’t play 70s-that, 90s-that trends: actually, these were the clothes he used to wear in his early days, and continues to wear on daily basis up to now. You will wear one of those big Peruvian-wool knits forever, just like the grey cardigan or oldie-but-goodie logo sweatshirt. There’s this sense of timeless in Dries’ latest collection and t’s real. No place for cliché here.

Men’s – Workwear. Yohji Yamamoto AW17

January 23, 2017January 23, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yohji Yamamoto wanted to recall that “basic aspect of the labor” – he referred to all the people in the background, who help him construct his exquisite garments. That’s a fact – real clothing can’t be made without human hands, you need to use your fingers to understand the texture; your body, to see how the piece looks on a living and breathing person. Having all that in mind, seeing Yamamoto’s menswear was a true experience. A man’s suit appeared in a number of different colours and fabrics, while elegant reversible coats, masculine vests and romantic capes were hand-painted with ‘working man’ slogans. There’s no fuss about Yohji’ collection – and that’s why I might adore them so much, always.

Men’s – Post Industrial. Loewe AW17

January 23, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s unbelievable, how Jonathan Anderson revamped Loewe. Three years ago, the Spanish brand was rather a yawn. Now, whether it’s a collection, presentation or cultural project, the designer builds a totally new, diverse language at the brand. His autumn-winter 2017 collection for men is even more twisted than usual. Anderson described this pack of wearable oddities as “a youthful eclecticism, something post-industrial.” Shearling boots and ripped tartan pants; ‘dilapidated’ bags and fluffy earrings; leather aprons and fleecy cardigans. Biker hats, the season’s must-have, are here, giving the scout-boy look. The look-book was photographed in a former steam engine, while Anderson’s new-season aesthetic has a revolutionary-like attitude. Is fashion going proletariat? That would be quite an oxymoron, with all the price tags. But…

Men’s – Napoleon. Y/Project AW17

January 22, 2017January 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

What happens when hip-hop star’s clothes land in Napoleon I’s wardrobe? Or Henry VIII takes style tips from Kanye? Glenn Martens, the designer behind Y/Project, is here to envision those impossible scenarios. Fusing royalty with streetwear, the Belgian designer styled distorted denim jackets with aristocratic, scarlet velvet. Every high-profile rapper has his / her merch outside the concert, selling everything from t-shirts to scarves: Martens reinterpreted the latter, putting faces of famous royals on each of them. Also, the floor-sweeping corduroy coats will make any entrance grand.

Men’s – Supreme. Louis Vuitton AW17

January 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ever wondered how to make everyone look at you in the fashion industry? The answer is as easy as that – invite Supreme to collaborate on your collection. Kim Jones precisely did this for his autumn-winter 2017 collection for Louis Vuitton, tapping the cult, New York-based brand, which keeps today’s youth drooling. Although I know I should be a fan of Supreme – perfectly fitting into the age target of this streetwear giant – I’m not. I just don’t get ecstatic about seeing a white-on-red logo on a sweatshirt or backpack. But the way Jones introduced Supreme to Louis Vuitton is intriguing. Ignoring the huge gap between ‘luxury ‘ and ‘street’, the designer wasn’t afraid to pull off a crocodile leather aviator jacket with Sup hand-bag or pendant. Moreover, he took a new spin on the monogram print, mashing up LV with SUPREME. In terms of the clothes, Kim didn’t dissapoint. Slouchy styling, brilliant layering – male version of Parisian chic is here, featuring a skate-board and biker hat.