Cute Pie. Miu Miu AW15

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One word that describes Miu Miu for fall is “cute“. Floral jewellery; little toddler shirts; pastel-coloured coats and dresses. Slightly naive and at the same time sexy. Miuccia Prada brought within the collection some spectacular aligator coats and really eye-catchy tweed skirts which seem to land the must-have status. Prada decided to play with fake—something something which seem to be artificial. This wasn’t just a collection of animal prints and patterns, rich in embossed leopard print with perverse backless “pinafore” dresses with big  cartoon buttons. Miuccia states – you can have any color you like as long as it isn’t natural.

Instinct? I like that word,” said Miuccia Prada after her show. For indeed, like all designers, she is led by her internal instincts, and these were animal ones on exposure today. “I wanted to put things together in a naive way, not caring, always wrong, with that attitude of instinct. It started with the mutation of ostrich in Prada, the genetic modification, the idea of a new species.

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And this is how we end this very busy and buzzy fashion month… au revoir.

Conceptuel. Louis Vuitton AW15

AW14 was about 70’s and the refreshed wardrobe. SS15 was looking at vintage florals and denim. AW15 is looking at the future, as Nicolas Ghesquiere stated after the Louis Vuitton show. And, it really did. Presented at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, Feja Beha walked down the runway in a fluffy, white shearling coat. Then, a very diverse model casting wore abstract peplum tops, satin suites with logo appliqued t-shirts and sexy lace “underwear” dresses.

Kept in ich colour palette, Ghesquiere’s conceptual take on winter wardrobe is über-interesting. The trousers seem to match everyhing just like the boldly coloured knits. I kind of love it.

Gabrielle’s Brasserie. Chanel AW15

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A vision of France from a stranger who thinks France is not that bad.” Karl Lagerfeld has grown increasingly tired of the cynical negativity, much of it from the French themselves. So, creating a Brasserie Gabrielle as a venue for Chanel’s AW15 show was the right idea – what cheers up a French as much as a good lunch with red wine? Well, only a new Chanel bag. But the space was too vast to communicate the charm of a real brasserie in Paris, even those as big as Balzar which is Lagerfeld’s favourite. Actually, it’s the first time when the usual, fabulously great concept for a Chanel show stumbled. But still, it felt nice.

If talking of the clothes, you know me. When there are 98 Chanel looks in one Chanel collection, I easily get bored. Why? Because they are all mostly the same. Boucle, tartan check, CC logo, pearls… all those Chanelised codes seem to sink in this big amount of clothes. And I always feel sad that quantity wins over the quality at Chanel shows. But the thing that surprised me were the shoes – or rather, one pair of shoes. Each model had the same pair of shoes! The classical, beige Coco pumps. I liked that. After all those ugly tweed sneakers and crystalized heels, a simple pair of beige pumps feels like a healthy detox.

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Who’s Cybulski? Hermes AW15

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That was a big moment for Hermes – the former designer assistant of The Row, Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, showed her debutant collection for this historical French house. Strict suede silhouettes and sexy pencil skirts are out-standing while the way Nadege transformed silk scarves into leather bandanas is a highlight. Red and mustard were the key colours of this minimal and classical presentation – although the collection lacks the romanticism which was brought by Christophe Lemaire, the clean and sharp lines match the house codes too. It’s already a wonder what Cynulski’s going to do in the future for Hermes!

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