American Hustle. Acne SS15

September 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hustle, hustle honey! It’s Acne for SS15, and we’got a big hustler thing going on. Rap gold chains, shiny aviator glasses, 70’s wide trousers and sexy V-necks are just few things that felt super hot. Green, yellow, beige, red… all of that was here, making the collection looking IT. Backstage Johansson said he’s been captivated lately by young people’s affection for and appropriation of luxury goods, the implication in the statement being that the phenomenon isn’t an experience he remembers from his own Swedish youth. But was he endorsing the current situation or poking fun at it? It wasn’t always clear. In the case of a strapless minidress made from a teal green terry cloth towel—spa day!—it seemed like Johansson was taking the piss.

Silk Fragility. Haider Ackermann SS15

September 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

As usual, Haider. You steal the spotlight of Parisian Fashion Week, without having a lot of effort. The summer created by Haider Ackermann is all about flesh-tone silks, backless knitwear and come-undone tailorings. Over-sized sweaters, cool vests, beautiful, blush pink trousers and magical, lilac capes- it all felt like a delicate, breezy summer in Paris. Stiff glossy leather belts orbited skin-tone satin tops and sharp, shoulder-skimming playsuits, while gathered chiffon blouses – slashed to the navel, were loosely tucked into low-slung trousers complete with sporty, racing stripes. Fans of the label’s more androgynous cuts will no doubt be inspired by the sleeveless crepe jackets, floor-length trench-coats and waistcoat tops. Haider Ackermann always ends up on my Parisian favourites. And this dreamy, ethereal surely classifies as one of the most wearable creations yet bt Ackermann. In love with the master-layering as much as in the whole collection. J’adore!

Feather Beauty. A.F. Vandevorst SS15

September 28, 2014September 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

My favourite Belgian label, A.F. Vandevorst, has just shown a magical collection. Keeping it a bit military, the designer couple introduced beautiful silhouttes and fabric. An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx had come up with a story, about a female pilot flying around the world who parachutes into terra incognita and begins exploring. Which is to say, Vandevorst and Arickx were riffing on parachutes and flight suits, a theme sledgehammered home by the rather extraordinary opening gown of what looked like parachute silk, with a train nearly the length of the runway. The models wore non-chalant gowns, wrapped jackets, red suits, very “natural” head covers and feather embroideries. And these ones were reall amazing. A.F. Vandevorst decorated the whole gown with feathers, making it look couture. But the simple shape of it made it feel (and look) very comfortable. Amazing.

Memories. Maison Martin Margiela SS15

September 28, 2014September 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wet. The models were literally wet during the Maison Martin Margiela show. What else felt “wow” in this collection? Hand-painted daisies on skirts and over-sized sunglasses. And the print mash-up with oriental kimono-like cut-outs. What was the idea, motif of the idea? No idea. But it felt attractive, a bit perverse and very mysterious. It feels elusive and totally Margiela.

Under The Palm Tree. Isabel Marant SS15

September 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

“My girl’s got a city to run,” Vampire Weekend frontman Ezra Koenig intones on SBTRKT’s “New Dorp. New York.”, the soundtrack to the Isabel Marant show, and the collection is all about that woman. A city girl in tailored but textural shapes, accented with elements from her travels to Africa and exotic islands. Tailored trousers and pleated, tiered mini skirts mixed with knitted shag coats and fringed tabarts, wrapped and tied at the waist. Maybe that wasn’t the best Isabel Marant collection, but you can’t say it was bad. It was french, and it felt like a good take on beach walk. It was very Parisienne, and at the same time ethnical.