Rough. Hodakova AW25

March 13, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

I really loved Hodakova’s collection for its roughness. Just like at The Row and Balenciaga, the line-up carried a sense of highlighting the mundane, the unfiltered reality. Ellen Hodakova Larsson’s interest in the theoretical concept of new materialism defines her brand – and has been her main focus ever since launching her eponymous label. Her garments, often made from pre-existing objects and materials, are full of personality. Coats made from upcycled fur and leather belts aggressively sticking out of sheath dresses are Hodakova’s most intriguing new-season experiments. The very riskily cropped pants gave the line-up sleazy sensuality… all that felt truly cool, yet somewhat disturbing – just like contemporary life. The penultimate look featured the base of a snare drum, which could have been an accessory or a skirt, and the finale was a model somewhat suffocatingly confined in a double bass, with her head and legs free. Cate Blanchett (who regularly wears Hodakova on the red carpet) playing Lydia Tár comes to mind immediately.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Old-Fashioned. Louis Vuitton AW25

March 13, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nicholas Ghesquière has been experimenting with the codes of the 1980s for the last few seasons. In his Louis Vuitton case, nostalgia is lethal (especially to ready-to-wear). Once, this designer captured the zeitgeist like no else. Today, he’s stuck in a bizarre, sentimental limbo. His runway ideas are scattered and dispersed, often left unresolved. The dresses look cumbersome and unflattering. The accessories – old-fashioned. Unlike at Saint Laurent, the colors (and prints) are just eye-scratching. I truly doubt anyone wants to dress like this. And we’re talking about Louis Vuitton, for god’s sake!

What strikes me is if an emerging designer – or a female designer – ever presented a collection like this, they would be roasted by everyone, from the critics to the leading voices of social media. Well, I guess the LV invitation has its power – and is worth staying silent for.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Chic Conservatism. Saint Laurent AW25

March 12, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Anthony Vaccarello didn’t open Paris Fashion Week, because he was at the Oscars with the cast of “Emilia Perez”. So this time he closed the week with a Saint Laurent outing that certainly made an impression. I’m still on fence if it’s a good or bad one. His collection was all about the 1980s – and utterly surprised with its chic conservatism. Pretty much no flesh in sight. No skimpy silhouettes. No sheer business. Instead, very boxy dresses, gargantuan coats, and ball dresses (styled with leather blousons). It’s refreshing to see Vaccarello getting disciplined in terms of construction and trying out the unexpected – especially in terms of color palette, this season so exuberant and livid. But there was something certainly unsettling about the YSL woman being so obscured in her high-necks and XXL pads.

Just like Nicole Kidman’s character in Babygirl, the woman envisioned by Vaccarello feels trapped in the world she’s built. She wants to break free and explore herself, but something’s holding her back. Her husband? Family life? Career?

Nevertheless, it’s exciting to see Anthony provoke one’s mind with a collection that isn’t obvious (and definitely not easy to copy for the high-street brands).

ED’s SELECTION:

SAINT LAURENT Salome Satin Wedge Sandals

SAINT LAURENT Resin Bracelet

SAINT LAURENT Gold-tone, Resin, Faux Pearl And Crystal Clip Earrings

SAINT LAURENT Smocked Ruffled Silk-crepon Blouse

SAINT LAURENT Jersey Midi Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Femininity is Fun. Miu Miu AW25

March 12, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miu Miu was delicious. Delightful! This season, Miuccia Prada mused about the accessories of femininity – bras, furs, brooches. Are they relevant today? Do they lift up? At her reductionist Prada collection, she seemed to turn her back to anything superfluous. But at Miu Miu, the frivolous, younger sister, she seemed to fully indulge in all the “feminine” ornaments that in the end of the day bring utmost pleasure. With a cast consisting of Sarah Paulson and Lou Doillon, and Lotta Volkova’s phenomenal styling, the collection remixed different decades that shaped what’s affiliated as feminine today. 1920s flapper silhouettes accented with very-retro caps. 1950s knee length satin lingerie dresses (with the bra peaking out!). 1980s uptown power-looks, smoothed around the edges and completed with Deeda Blair’s hairstyle. It might sound like a lot, but the overall effect was absolutely Miu Miu. And it reminded us that fashion can be truly, truly fun to play around with.

ED’s SELECTION:

Miu Miu Short-Sleeve Cashmere Sweater

Miu Miu Intarsia Logo Cashmere Briefs

Miu Miu Leather Lace-Up Moccasins

Miu Miu Shearling Collar Oversized Jacket

Miu Miu Rose Print Knee Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Miserable. Balenciaga AW25

March 11, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Give us nothing” energy was delivered by Demna at Balenciaga. Unlike at Prada and The Row, here, the effect was absolutely depressing. I get that the Parisian crowds might find the radical mediocrity of purposely badly-cut men’s suits and shirts amusing, but for a person living in Poland, this is very triggering to see. It’s literally what you get on the streets during Women’s Day when all the guys buy their girls that one little rose, once in a year. Demna even had this infamous, sad-macho “archetype” in the show. Another nightmare: the ridiculously bad duvet jackets that you can get at any East-European bazaar. They were here, too, in different unflattering lengths. Don’t get me started with the tight polo shirts and the Puma collab. I get the irony and I’ve always enjoyed Demna’s mind – and sense of humor. But something is certainly off about his latest runway collections – and this one screamed “crisis”.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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