Personal. Céline SS18

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In the past, Céline wasn’t the same Céline we know today. In 2017, the label is associated as an epitome of minimal, edgy chic. Actually, Phoebe Philo‘s spring-summer 2018 endeavour was to revive the Céline woman of the 70s, 80s. Those were the pre-Juergen Teller times, when the brand’s campaigns were presenting beige-loving, bourgeoisie ladies whom you would rather see on the crème de la crème of Parisian streets – the Avenue Foch.

Does this woman exist in 2017? Well, she’s rather carrying a croco Birkin, than a Céline plastic tote or, let’s say, orthopedic, rubber sneakers. But for Philo, it wasn’t about trying to do something forced or pretentious. Eccentric, charming, yet nonchalant – those are the words that well define this collection, which has both, an embellished sequin evening dress with a turtleneck and a thick-wool poncho for weekend escapes. “It certainly felt personal“, the designer told the press after her show. She surely meant that the line-up wasn’t meant to be single-themed, but more of an intimate, very elusive vision. Whether in an all-beige suit or a boldly striped gown, carrying a blanket or dressed head-to-toe in white, the Céline woman is definitely not unequivocal in her style choices. Just like fashion in the past that was free of ‘influencers’, all that social media dictatorship and trend rushing. It was about experimenting and having that ‘spark’ in your look. You had it, or not. I fear not everyone will be able to pull off these looks – they really do need that personality, not the wallet. But that’s the reason why Céline stays one of the most sophisticated labels existing today.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

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Best Ugly Shoes Of The Season

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Finding those Miu Miu cowboy boots from spring-summer 1999 on the web a few days ago made me think for a while. Those shoes can be worn  with the same (or even better today) relevance, whether it’s the 90s or 2017. My other thought was, ‘wait, I’ve seen that shoe shape countless of times this season’s’, starting from Calvin Klein and ending on Louis Vuitton. My last thought, and the most clear-headed one, was simple: they are just ugly. Lets not lie to ourselves, the colour, the wooden heel, the ultimately appalling look of these shoes makes them ugly in every single aspect.

But ugly is fun. And fashion loves fun. So, apparently, fashion loves ugliness. For instance, Miuccia Prada (the designer behind these cowboy stompers above) is the pioneer of ‘ugly’ in fashion, successfully selling nylon backpacks at Prada and pulling the envelope even further each season in questioning the term ‘good taste’. No one can help it – the uglier, the better. But am I frustrated with that fact? The answer is no. I will never forget Phoebe Philo’s massive impact on ugly footwear, after presenting at her Céline spring-summer 2013 runway THOSE sandals with fur. The instant reaction was bad, just read through the self-acclaimed fashionistas’ comments on some of Blogspot’s virtual junk-sites. But, as time has shown, those fluffies weren’t as bad as everybody thought back in 2013. Enter Zara today, and guess what you will find? Every second pair of sandals (and  heels) are covered with faux-fur. And no one’s complaining.

If you also have a strange affection for horrendously looking footwear (hope I’m not the only one here), that’s one for you – the season’s nine ugliest shoes, captioned.

We still have to wait a bit for Shayne Oliver‘s debut collection at Helmut Lang. But the brand’s newly revamped website has those boots on-line. They perfectly convey Lang’s unconventional sense for footwear with that shearling fur sticking out. Cringey? Cringey. But cool.

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Cowboy boots weren’t the only shoes appearing on Calvin Klein‘s runway. Raf Simons also has in offer these PVC stilettos, in different colours. Plastic and suede, that’s so drastically painful.

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Céline site claims that these boots are made in Spain according to traditional shoe-making technique. Sharp in the front, slouchy on the back. That peculiar, square silhouette. One of the seasons stranger things, that’s for sure. But of high quality!

Again, Miu Miu. How many Muppets were killed to make these? Note, they’re vegan.

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Francesco Risso‘ debut collection at Marni wasn’t only about really, but really messily edited clothing. The designer wasn’t only slammed by the critics for his ultra-psychedelic take on 60s, 70s, 80s, and God knows what else, but also for his shoes. An edgily curved heel. Patent leather. Fur-trimming. I wrote that ‘the uglier, the better’. Well, here’s an exception.

Miuccia hits this post the third time with her Prada footwear. Fur loafers versus those knee-length monsters. I like the fur story, but the boots with buckles everywhere look lame and nerd, even for Milan.

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I love Acne Studios doing ugly shoes every season. So many things are going on here – ribbed knit, rusty suede, some kind of glue-y material and polished leather. Oh dear, what Jonny Johansson is a genius.

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Demna Gvasalia spandex boots at Balenciaga are already the brand’s classic, but this season’s version in neon-green is toxic like a tropical frog.

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You might easily get lost in these Y / Project boots of gargantuan capacity. Glenn Martens knows no limits, and whatever other say – these shoes are as badass as the collection itself.

Hope nobody suffered while reading this post! It’s fashion, after all.

Céline Blankets

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Phoebe Philo knows the art of laid-back like no other. And her autumn-winter 2017 collection for Céline proves that with a piece you surely haven’t predicted to become the new style trick. I’m speaking of the ultra-big blankets, that have a thing or two to say. Philo took her cue from a pub menu, emblazoning those fleecy, fringed shawls with ‘Beef Stew’, ‘Sticky Toffee Pudding’ and ‘Bangers and Mash’. Just imagine, how these heartfelt blankets might warm you up on a breezy day in the countryside this autumn (while eating one of Phoebe’s favourite dishes, I guess).

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Her World. Céline Pre-Fall 2017

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To be honest, it’s hard to flip from Gucci’s resort 2018 Italian glamo-mania to Céline‘s world of minimal silhouettes and modern woman-dressing. But I feel much more comfortable in case of the latter – in Phoebe Philo‘s world. For her pre-fall 2017 collection (presented as usual, just before the clothes hit the stores), the brand’s creative director does what she does best. Empowering shirts and all-day dresses; incredible, probably the  most perfectly tailored coats in fur and leather; pleated midi-skirts with feminine, leg-exposing cuts. Thick, plaid shirt appeared to be the most unexpected piece in the entire collection – somehow, though checks became forgotten, they will surely comeback for autumn in not so average, laid-back version. Although the colour palette is quite earthy, Philo splashed some colour through geometric patterns on the knits and blouson. It all looks like made in heaven. In Céline heaven!

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.