Last. Céline Pre-Fall 2018

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Yes, it’s the sad truth. Phoebe Philo‘s pre-fall 2018 really is the last collection for Céline. And, once you calm down after a minute (or two), let the tears dry, face it – this collection is a gift that keeps on giving. I think I’ve went through the images dozens of times by now and I constantly discover something new, something completely fresh, something only Philo could do. As Sarah Mower wrote for Vogue, it’s a collection of “souvenirs”, collectibles to wear and adore in memory of Philo’s Céline era. Those wool ponchos; heavy rubber boots; Margiela-esque duvet coats; the white fur coat with an equally fur belt;  simple, Katharine-Hepburn-would-approve blazers. The spontaneous shots of Binx Walton, Jess Cole, Karolin Wolter and Maggie Maurer (all the beloved Céline girls) by Juergen Teller get me freaking excited as well. That’s a very, very precious fashion moment to me. And I really can’t wait to see and get hold of some of these pieces once they hit the stores this summer.

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Sportswear is basic, I know. But the burgundy track suit can’t be ignored.

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Also, I’ve realised Juergen Teller wore this fur coat to his latest shoot for Pop Magazine.

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That. Look. In. The. Middle. I can’t.

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Well, that’s all. All good things come to an end, even if we don’t want to end.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Distant. Céline AW18

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There was something of Phoebe Philo in Céline‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection. But still, that ‘something’ was very, very distant. She’s not there. There’s no soul in these clothes, even if they are worn by Phoebe’s favourite Binx Walton and Charlee Fraser. Those are just the ‘tricks’ Philo would probably have used if she was still around the studio. The heavy palette of navy, brown and black slightly suggest, that even the ‘inside’ designers of Céline feel the misery. Well, this doesn’t mean it’s a collection to ignore – you better snath one of those voluminous coats or masculine blazers before Hedi Slimane fully hits the house. And also, please give a chance to this random, yet adorable vegetable print dress.

By the way… I can’t agree with the thought Phoebe isn’t THERE. And you?

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Phoebe Philo Forever

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Ten years – a decade – means really something in fashion industry. Phoebe Philo’s era at Céline didn’t only change the course of fashion (minimal-slash-arty aesthetic; raw, Juergen Teller-like advertising; presenting pre-collections just before they hit the stores – many other labels follow Philo’s ‘rules’ like a prophet), but the way women approach clothing. Once the Céline woman goes for masculine, XXL coats that continue to sell like hot buns since Philo’s collections in 2010; then, the other time she takes a delicate slip-dress with lace inserts or a clingy, knitted sweater in olive-green. In her feature on Philo’s power, Cathy Horyn stated in the following way: Philo’s clothes were not just simply for women; they were also about women — their distractions, their routines, the way they stuff a bag under an arm or concoct an outfit out of a dress and trousers, their sideways longing for red-lipped glamour, their disdain for basics, their love of uniforms, their wisdom and maturity. Unlike other designers who do ready-to-wear, Phoebe didn’t bother with ‘telling stories’ – she just wanted the clothes to become a woman’s close friend.

 For me, her collections were the most anticipated moments during Paris fashion weeks, while the look-books were always like a sweet treat. Whether we’re speaking of Philo’s spring-summer 2013 fur-lined Birkenstock sandals, autumn-winter 2017 green blankets, autumn-winter 2015 white sneakers or spring-summer 2017 mega-big tote bag, it’s undisputable: she is the master of desirable, yet unconventional accessories. My heart bleeds, when I think of all the beautiful things Philo gave us while at helm of the maison. The rumour has it that the designer isn’t planning to lead a label anytime soon. Although that sounds devastating, it makes sense: Phoebe Philo frequently highlighted her urge for ‘slowing down’. Today’s fashion is at a insanely pointless, fast pace. I hope that 2018 will become some kind of ‘breaking’ year for all that.

Below, I’m looking back at some of my favourite Phoebe-at-Céline wonders.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki. Ad campaigns by Jurgen Teller and Tyrone Lebon.