New York’s Go-To. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS16

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Maryam Nassir Zadeh is a go-to label and store in New York, where eponymous, yet affordable clothes and accessories are sold. For her namesake line, Maryam released the spring-summer 2016 look-book, photographed by talented Lea Colombo. The clothes are presented by two models, who reflect the Nassir Zadeh client – Mari Giudicelli and Susan Cianciolo. Devoided of fashionista crowd and massive PR explosion, the SS16 collection is a combination ranging from the designer’s  signatures – note the super comfortable leather sandals and flattering dresses – to chic high-waisted trousers, sheer shirts and ecru shaded swimwear. However, the most exciting part of the line’s collection is the introduction of reworked denim. A pair of MNZ jeans, patchworked with diversity of indigo washes, seems to be the brand’s future best-selling piece, just like the glove shoes which stole the hearts of many women in the past seasons. Although Nassir Zadeh shows her collections one month after the New York Fashion Weeks, she never fails to deliver hearty and supremely stylish clothes.

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Moments from No21 Showroom

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Beautiful moments from the No21 showroom, which presented their latest, spring-summer 2016 collection. I instantly fell  in love with easy tank-top dresses that had white t-shirts under. Also, note the seductive and very chic cigarette prints on knitted tops and sweat-shirts. The cappuccino coloured denim flares gave a fresh air of French cool, looking off-duty with big, cabas totes. The tasseled, raffia sandals that have referenced to tribal Africa are killing it, just as the rest of the collection. As usual, Alessandro Dell’AcQua nailed it!

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All photos by me.

Fondazione Prada

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“Haunted Tower”

Fondazione Prada is Milan’s most exciting place, where curated art meets architecture and its past. The creator of Fondazione Prada is, as the name might suggest, Miuccia Prada, whose love to art is as strong as to fashion. This is not an average, contemporary art museum – Fondazione fuses visual appreciation with intellectual pleasure – everything that happens here, from silent dance performances to temporary exhibitions, feels bonded together. The “Haunted House” covered with gold and the whole Fondazione Prada site is part of a former distillery complex dating back to the 1910s.

Without transforming the original volumes, the architecture project has preserved and enhanced the building by reinforcing the structure and gilding its external surface. As stated by Rem Koolhaas, the architect behind the museum, “Fondazione is not a preservation project and not a new architecture. Two conditions that are usually kept separate here confront each other in a state of permanent interaction–offering an ensemble of fragments that will not congeal into a single image, or allow any part to dominate the others. New, old, horizontal, vertical, wide, narrow, white, black, open, enclosed–all these contrasts establish the range of oppositions that define the new Fondazione. By introducing so many spatial variables, the complexity of the architecture will promote an unstable, open programming, where art and architecture will benefit from each other’s challenges”. Permanently, Fondazione Prada exhibits Louis Bourgeois‘s metaphysical installations, Robert Gober‘s eerie and surreal artworks. As part of the temporary exhibition, it’s essential to see Damien Hirst‘s “Trittico“, which literally presents a gynecologist chair immersed in a huge, fish-filled aquarium.

After few hours of discovering and learning about Fondazione Prada’s treasures, it’s a great idea to have cup of coffee at Bar Luce, which was designed by Wes Anderson, the famous director of “The Grand Budapest Hotel” – the pastel green wallpapers and delicious, marmalade cupcakes certainly give the caffè a status of the best museum cafeteria in the world. If you are planning a visit to Milan, then don’t even try to miss Fondazione Prada on your go-to list!

 

Via Largo Isarco 2 / Milan

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Kitsch, Belts and Grandma. Vetements SS16

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One of the season’s most anticipated brands, Vetements, presented its anti-fashion collection in a tacky Chinese restaurant. But, even though the SS16 mood-board wasn’t focused on China nor on Asia, it reflected the spirit of this place through old-fashioned kitsch. Floral dresses inspired by Demna Gvasalia’s  aprons of his grandmother, sequined capes, velvet sweatshirts and tunics – and all of that bound up with ultra-long leather belts with Harley-Davidson-style buckles. The eerie soundtrack of the collection perfecly described the new season’s attitude – it began with gentle waltz and then abruptly descended into Mayhem – the Norwegian heavy metal group. The Vetements logo black hoodies featuring a graphic based on Leonardo Di Caprio and Kate Winslet in Titanic burst confusion (maybe one of Vetements’ designers loves / hates the film?), however the leather jackets that were constructed to be comfortable when sat on real bikes made much sense. The must-have, best-selling jeans were renewed to be more comfortable and affordable. In other words, Vetements for spring summer 2016 is rather an expansion of the last season’s wardrobe than a new idea. But in reality, it absolutely made the collection be more desirable, just like the cowboy boots or sock heels.

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Photography by Chloé Le Drezen

Sophie Buhai

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Wearable sculptures by Sophie Buhai are not only timeless, but precious. “There’s a certain woman who wants to buy a jewelry piece as if it were a wearable piece of sculpture, and invest in it. You want quality. You want something that’s beautiful and that’s going to last.” The 34 years old designer and founder of her eponymous label knows what a woman with class wants. Buhai strives to present her collection of cuffs, collars, pendants and rings with a sense of permanence and each of her lovingly sculpted works appeals to a sophisticated clientele.

Sophie Buhai’s jewellery is available at The Line. Photography by Thomas Lohr.

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