Parma, Love You.

IMG_3970

Although prosperous cities in the Northern part of Italy are nothing of a surprise, there’s probably no other place like Parma that’s so devoted to the pleasures of life. Well, no wonder why – it’s the city of ham (yes, that Parma ham!) and Parmesan cheese. There’s no possible way that anyone can feel sad in here, in the heaven of Italian cuisine.

This refined city has lots of chic caffes and elegant restaurants, not speaking of the very well curated boutiques and vintage stores (filled with 70s Pucci, for example). The historic city centre isn’t too big, and you can virtually grasp it in one day. Start from Piazza del Duomo, where the cathedral from 11th century is located. Take a moment to look at all those impressive frescoes, painted by Correggio back in the past. Just a few metres from the cathedral there’s also the equally precious baptistery, fully built from orange-y marble brought straight from Verona. After you finish admiring the piazza, go straight to Palazzo dell Pilotta (unless you stop for a heaven ice coffee or some local pastry on the way…). The colossal building holds three institutions: the library, the archeological museum and the Teatro Farnese. All of them are worth seeing, but to be honest, the last one is the most astounding experience. It’s a theatre constructed totally out of wood, from 1617. Even though it’s no longer in use, a walk around the incredibly looking stage and auditorium feels as great as seeing a delightful spectacle. Note the fantastically opulent molding and ornaments… I didn’t expect Parma to be that truly gorgeous. It’s a must-see if you ask me, but also, a smart place to stay for a few nights so that you can easily drive to other places in the vicinity.

P.s. I will post my favourite addresses in Parma soon, but in the meantime – did you see the newly updated ‘Places’ page?

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

A Day in Portofino

SONY DSC

In the past, it used to be a romantic, silent fishing village. Still, even though Portofino is what it is today – an exclusive, expensive resort town filled with fancy shops (Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga doesn’t really match the local ‘Italian prettiness’, to be honest), yachts, elegant coffee shops and restaurants that are simply overcrowded with tourists (didn’t see Giorgio Armani or Rihanna in any, ha…) – it looks like a postcard. Specifically, a postcard you wouldn’t mind finding in your post! But if you find yourself slightly bored with the cliché part of Portofino, so the pedestrian area near the sea, don’t hesitate to go up the beautiful pine forest. Oh, and you don’t want to miss the last ferry to Santa Margherita Ligure – or else you go bankrupt, staying at Splendido Hotel for the night. Note: it’s very difficult to get to Portofino by car.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

#IntaLOVE – July 2018

IMG_5526

@davidluraschi

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my July recommendations!

@loljacobs / Lolita Jacobs is the Paris-based creative director and stylist, whose Instagram feed is like a livestream mood-board consisting of Françoise Hardy looks and Irving Penn’s still life photographs. But also, once you click ‘follow’, be prepared for having your wedding goals levelled up. The pics of her’s and Jean-Baptiste Talbourdet-Napoleone’s St. Tropez wedding, that took place this month, are heaven. Especially, when your bridal looks consist of custom Jacquemus and Alaia.

@davidluraschi / You might know David Luraschi for his work for Jacquemus – think the spring-summer 2018 campaign photographed on the volcanic beaches of Lanzarote. His latest editorial for Vogue, starring the incredible Adut Akech, placed the talented photographer even further in the spotlight. Keep this guy on your radar.

@maryamkeyhani / With Maryam Keyhani’s feed, you’re entering a fantastical reality of, as Vogue puts it, sculptor, painter, wife, mother, surrealist, and dreamer; but hat lady is certainly near the top of a list. Maryam is based in Berlin and she’s about to launch her headwear line in autumn. Expect the most marvelous headpieces you (or rather she) can imagine. Other than hats, it’s vintage clothing and the way she styles it that makes Keyhani’s account so… addicting. I mean, wouldn’t you wear a huge ball-gown in front of a Louis Bourgeois installation?

@pppiccioli / There are many reasons why you should follow Pierpaolo Piccioli on the ‘gram. First snaps from Valentino campaigns (lately done by Juergen Teller); backstage moments from the shows (think the latest haute couture collection and that ecstatic feather gown Kaia Gerber wore); postcards from designer’s trip to Morocco. Do you really need more to be convinced?

@luncheonmagazine / Luncheon Magazine calls itself a ‘cultural serving’. Well, there’s no other more precise way to describe it. From the magical spread featuring the photos of Renata Litvinova by Gosha Rubchinskiy, to a detailed text on Euan Uglow by Paul Smith (yes, this Paul Smith), the latest issue of Luncheon is a feast. In all aspects: visual and intellectual. Check out Luncheon’s Instagram for some delightful teasers and peeks at their London events.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

 

Galleria Mazzini in Genoa

IMG_3308

If you love vintage (especially proper, opulent, slightly kitschy Italian vintage), you’ve got to visit Galleria Mazzini in Genoa. This historical passage, that as well holds a number of coffee shops and boutiques, is also where all the Genoan antique specialists sell their finds. From Italian furniture classics from the 60s and century old posters to colourful old school car toys and jet-set era Gucci bags, this place has some true treasures. The prices are high, but the guys here are ready to bargain. Want more on Genoa? Click here.

Galleria Giuseppe Mazzini / Genoa

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

When in Genoa

SONY DSC

Once called the ‘mistress of the sea’ due to its port, today Genoa (also read as Genova) isn’t that much in favour, especially if speaking of tourists. There’s no sense in planning your walk around the historic centre of the city. The streets and narrow caruggi twine and tangle without much logic, so it’s better to go with the flow (but remember not to get too lost – it’s better to stay in the main part of the city, since Genoa in general is infamous for being one of the least safe places in Italy). The local roughness and state of dilapidated, close-to-ruin buildings might repel at the beginning, but you will surely feel the charm on the second day of your stay. Genoa reminds you that Italy isn’t that polished after all, and the laundry getting dried on the streets isn’t a postcard cliché, but reality. What’s definitely worth visiting is Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (which is somewhere between Gothic and Baroque style) that stores an underground treasury. Still, Genoa’s streets intrigued me the most. At some moments they get totally dark, even in the day-time. Not only because they are narrow; the townhouses are surprisingly tall as well. The effect is highly cinematic. Also note all the small food markets. For coffee, go to the chic Caffè Degli Specchi that has the best ice coffee, while for small shopping try Aspesi (best ‘Made in Italy’ shirts in very affordable prices) and the vintage market situated at Galleria Mazzini (next post is coming up on that magical place!). But in the end, even though every guide seems to hate Genoa, we had great time here. We weren’t robbed or anything like that!

A hint: if you’re travelling in a big car, Genoa might be a hard nut to crack. Parking here is a nightmare, and no guide will tell you this…

More of my addresses from Genoa are right here.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.