When in Genoa

July 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Once called the ‘mistress of the sea’ due to its port, today Genoa (also read as Genova) isn’t that much in favour, especially if speaking of tourists. There’s no sense in planning your walk around the historic centre of the city. The streets and narrow caruggi twine and tangle without much logic, so it’s better to go with the flow (but remember not to get too lost – it’s better to stay in the main part of the city, since Genoa in general is infamous for being one of the least safe places in Italy). The local roughness and state of dilapidated, close-to-ruin buildings might repel at the beginning, but you will surely feel the charm on the second day of your stay. Genoa reminds you that Italy isn’t that polished after all, and the laundry getting dried on the streets isn’t a postcard cliché, but reality. What’s definitely worth visiting is Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (which is somewhere between Gothic and Baroque style) that stores an underground treasury. Still, Genoa’s streets intrigued me the most. At some moments they get totally dark, even in the day-time. Not only because they are narrow; the townhouses are surprisingly tall as well. The effect is highly cinematic. Also note all the small food markets. For coffee, go to the chic Caffè Degli Specchi that has the best ice coffee, while for small shopping try Aspesi (best ‘Made in Italy’ shirts in very affordable prices) and the vintage market situated at Galleria Mazzini (next post is coming up on that magical place!). But in the end, even though every guide seems to hate Genoa, we had great time here. We weren’t robbed or anything like that!

A hint: if you’re travelling in a big car, Genoa might be a hard nut to crack. Parking here is a nightmare, and no guide will tell you this…

More of my addresses from Genoa are right here.

SONY DSC

SONY DSC

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Bavaria / Tyrol

July 23, 2018July 23, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

On our road trip to Italy (and back home), we’ve stayed for a few days in the mountains. First, we stopped in a small Austrian town (stone throw from Innsbruck) to get that fresh, Tyrol air. And ride the funicular! We did the same in Bavaria, the Alpine region of Germany. Bayrischzell is a perfect place for long forest walks, goat milk (get in at Leitzachtaler Ziegenhof farm) and, in general, every other typically Bavarian activity like drinking beer (not for me, though!) and hiking. Oh, and taking a bath in front of a waterfall is nothing unusual here. If you’re here, hit the Wandelstein mountain that’s near – up there you might have a chance listen to local orchestra, eat the all-time classic wurst and fall in love with every single view. Well, maybe not ‘every’ – unless you’re into the current ‘fashion trekker’ look done by the locals and tourists.

For those planning to reach the top of any other mountain in Tyrol or Bavara this summer – in style – you might want to get hold of these Marni Olive neoprene sneakers and that Y/Project hoodie.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Céline in Munich

July 22, 2018July 22, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Our road trip to Italy (lots of posts coming up!) had some stops. And the first, but very major one, was the Céline store in Munich. We weren’t only lured by Phoebe Philo’s last pieces for the brand. The two-floor store was opened last September, and will be -unfortunately – soon refurbished under Hedi Slimane’s direction (as all the other Céline boutiques around the world). So, we wanted to have this ‘good-bye’ moment with the multicoloured marble tiles inlaid with semi-precious stones, the abstract hangers and shelves, fluffy sofas and enormously big pot plants that made each Céline store somewhat feel like home for all the Philophiles. As all the other Céline stores, this one was designed by the Danish artist Thomas Poulsen. Together with the pre-fall 2018 goods (think rubber boots and over-sized hoodies), everything from the colours to textures works in a perfect harmony. Now, I’m serious – if an eventual garage sale of the Céline store stuff comes up, please, let me know!

Maximilianstrasse 22 / Munich

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Between Art & Fashion at Helmut Newton Foundation

July 2, 2018January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Carla Sozzani, former editor-in-chief of the Italian Elle and Vogue, has collected photographs for many years. Since 1990, she has also exhibited these works in her Corso Como 10 in Milan in close cooperation with numerous internationally renowned photographers – including Helmut Newton. The personal friendship between Carla and Helmut not only led to countless exhibitions, but also to the current presentation of her multifaceted photography collection at the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin, under the title Between Art & Fashion.

More than 220 photographs were selected from the collection (which actually comprises almost 1,000 works!). The exhibition not only presents numerous icons, it also contains plenty of rare surprises. Some of photographers are represented with only a single work, while for others there is a small group of photographs (like the mega-wall by Steven Meisel). The selection is not about completeness, but authenticity and visualization, about the quality of autonomous and representative images – in this case thematically adapted to the specific exhibition venue.

On display in June Newton’s room, on the occasion of the 95th birthday of Helmut’s wife, who worked under the name Alice Springs, are 22 previously unseen portraits – Yves, Azzedine, Karl, Vivienne are all here. But it’s also worth visiting the pernament exhibition on the ground floor, which features Helmut Newton’s office room display, posters, his wardrobe and favourite (and sexy, which isn’t shocking knowing Newton’s body of work) objects.

The exhibition is open until November 18th, 2018.

Helmut Newton Foundation / Jebenstraße 2 / Berlin

Italy, Coming!

June 27, 2018June 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

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Sophia Loren by Richard Avedon.

Off to Italy for a road trip! Will be late with the rest of the spring-summer 2019 reviews, but no worries, some posts will be coming up in the meantime (like Lisbon guide or the Carla Sozzani exhibition in Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin). Stay tuned.